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what's the best way to remove rust?


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6 replies to this topic

#1 dojj

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Posted 24 October 2020 - 01:53 PM

other than using a wire brush, on a rotatory drill?

and if so, what's the best ones to get?

i did think about some of those things that have a bunch of sticks poking out that act like little hammers, but i don't know what they are called or if they are actually any good

thanks


mk3 mondeo ghia x estate 2.0 auto with:

362mm 6 pot ap stoppers lurking behind some 8 x 18 comps
tv fitted to facelifted dash + headrest screens for both kids
full st kit + powerfolds w/puddlelights with jp stainless exhaust
shonky n/s/f rattle fixed by totd whoopie!
most of the chrome bits done


#2 raynkar

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Posted 24 October 2020 - 03:01 PM

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Where is the rust you want to remove?

 

Any parts than can be removed are best dealt with using electrolysis. Parts on the car can be wire brushed as you say, but can also be sanded using whichever type of sander suits the shape of the area.

 

There are paint on rust dissolving gels, I’ve never used them myself, but some people really like them.


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#3 Communist

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Posted 24 October 2020 - 06:50 PM

For anything you can't remove from the car, a belt file like this.
61R8y34yOnL._AC_SL1410_.jpg

Or a flap wheel on a grinder if you can get it in there. If you can remove it and the part fits in a bucket, then electrolysis works well and is cheap. I used a broken laptop charger and an old door hinge last time I did it.

Painting the area is important too. Give it several coats of zinc and as many coats of paint as you can. If the area is somewhere not easily visible and away from anything rubber then I always coat it in grease.

Edited by Communist, 24 October 2020 - 06:51 PM.


#4 raynkar

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Posted 24 October 2020 - 07:43 PM

For anything you can't remove from the car, a belt file like this.
61R8y34yOnL._AC_SL1410_.jpg

Or a flap wheel on a grinder if you can get it in there. If you can remove it and the part fits in a bucket, then electrolysis works well and is cheap. I used a broken laptop charger and an old door hinge last time I did it.

Painting the area is important too. Give it several coats of zinc and as many coats of paint as you can. If the area is somewhere not easily visible and away from anything rubber then I always coat it in grease.

 

I use that exact same finger sander.

I used to use a proper branded one but when that died I gave the Silverline ones a go. They aren’t brilliant, and are a bit under powered, but are excellent value for money compared to a professional model. 

For me they tend to last around a year before they die.


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#5 dojj

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Posted 25 October 2020 - 01:06 AM

its the rear beam, it's covered in dirt mainly but also this flaky rusty stuff, there's good metal underneath the top layer but it's a it big to dip into a plastic pot full of stuff lol


mk3 mondeo ghia x estate 2.0 auto with:

362mm 6 pot ap stoppers lurking behind some 8 x 18 comps
tv fitted to facelifted dash + headrest screens for both kids
full st kit + powerfolds w/puddlelights with jp stainless exhaust
shonky n/s/f rattle fixed by totd whoopie!
most of the chrome bits done


#6 Communist

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Posted 25 October 2020 - 08:44 PM

 

For anything you can't remove from the car, a belt file like this.


Or a flap wheel on a grinder if you can get it in there. If you can remove it and the part fits in a bucket, then electrolysis works well and is cheap. I used a broken laptop charger and an old door hinge last time I did it.

Painting the area is important too. Give it several coats of zinc and as many coats of paint as you can. If the area is somewhere not easily visible and away from anything rubber then I always coat it in grease.

 

I use that exact same finger sander.

I used to use a proper branded one but when that died I gave the Silverline ones a go. They aren’t brilliant, and are a bit under powered, but are excellent value for money compared to a professional model. 

For me they tend to last around a year before they die.

 

 

I use the silverline one too. Not the reason I chose the picture, it was the first that appeared! Mine's lasted me about 4 or 5 years and I use it quite often. I agree they're underpowered but it's just about powerful enough to get the job done.

 

One nice thing about them is they seem to use a proper bearing on the end. I have borrowed a more powerful model from another manufacturer, can't remember which one, but it didn't use a bearing, just some strange, crappy bushing type thing that got completely cooked. Shame, as it was noticably more powerful and the motor was still fine, but couldn't be as easily repaired due to that stupid arrangement on the end of it.
 

I need to clean up my rear beam at some point too. I'll probably use electrolysis, as I have an old dustbin (rustbin) outside that I can do about half at a time. Eventually I'll need to do the subframes. I think I'll be good for the rear but the front is going to take at least a bathtub. I might get them professionally dipped just to keep the insides nicely protected.


Edited by Communist, 25 October 2020 - 08:48 PM.


#7 raynkar

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Posted 25 October 2020 - 08:50 PM

 

 

For anything you can't remove from the car, a belt file like this.


Or a flap wheel on a grinder if you can get it in there. If you can remove it and the part fits in a bucket, then electrolysis works well and is cheap. I used a broken laptop charger and an old door hinge last time I did it.

Painting the area is important too. Give it several coats of zinc and as many coats of paint as you can. If the area is somewhere not easily visible and away from anything rubber then I always coat it in grease.

 

I use that exact same finger sander.

I used to use a proper branded one but when that died I gave the Silverline ones a go. They aren’t brilliant, and are a bit under powered, but are excellent value for money compared to a professional model. 

For me they tend to last around a year before they die.

 

 

I use the silverline one too. Not the reason I chose the picture, it was the first that appeared! Mine's lasted me about 4 or 5 years and I use it quite often. I agree they're underpowered but it's just about powerful enough to get the job done.

 

One nice thing about them is they seem to use a proper bearing on the end. I have borrowed a more powerful model from another manufacturer, can't remember which one, but it didn't use a bearing, just some strange, crappy bushing type thing that got completely cooked. Shame, as it was noticably more powerful and the motor was still fine, but couldn't be as easily repaired due to that stupid arrangement on the end of it.
 

I need to clean up my rear beam at some point too. I'll probably use electrolysis, as I have an old dustbin (rustbin) outside that I can do about half at a time. Eventually I'll need to do the subframes. I think I'll be good for the rear but the front is going to take at least a bathtub. I might get them professionally dipped just to keep the insides nicely protected.

 

Most of my tools are Makita.

The Makita version is roughly £180. At the time I bought the silverline sander I was skint, so it was an excellent value for money alternative :)


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