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Replacing brake pipes


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6 replies to this topic

#1 Rekusu

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Posted 20 October 2020 - 12:17 PM

What ho one and all,

 

Following another thread (https://talkford.com...you-believe-it/) I have been inspecting my brake pipes prior to an upcoming MOT.

 

Have no problems in the past and don't expect this time, but I can see in the nooks and crannies around the tank, there is evidence of corrosion.

 

Thinking therefore that it may be an idea to replace some of the pipes.  Some time ago, I had to drop the tank to clean it, so I am familiar with the process, and may plan to do that again.  And so to the questions:

 

I know the pipe runs are current hidden by the tank, but does dropping the tank reveal all or are there some 'tricky' areas around the sub-frame that still make life and access difficult?

 

I have read about difficulty in bleeding the ABS valve so better not to 'empty' it.  How?  Surely cutting any brake pipe will drain the fluid and by default, the ABS?

 

Kunfer pipe bends easily by hand but for right angle bends, is it likely to crush without a bending tool? 

 

If I only replace the section from the union in front of the rear wheels, could I reuse the same union male / female parts (one will still be in place anyway?) 

 

I do have a flare tool but don't recall if it is DIN or SAE and does it matter?  If the flare is good, surely the nut will clamp everything in place?  Seem to recall the even Fraund did not know thir DIN form thier SAE.

 

Thanks and toold pip


What if the Hokey Cokey IS what it's all about?

#2 Rekusu

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Posted 22 October 2020 - 11:48 AM

Not exactly inundated with replies, so will try something else.

 

Some time ago, I bought a DIN flare tool  but it only does what can be called, the 'male' flare.

 

Flare.jpg

 

If I use this, do I connect male to male with the relevant union, or should I use a joiner which takes the male flare at each end?

 

 


What if the Hokey Cokey IS what it's all about?

#3 raynkar

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Posted 23 October 2020 - 10:24 PM

Not exactly inundated with replies, so will try something else.

 

Some time ago, I bought a DIN flare tool  but it only does what can be called, the 'male' flare.

 

attachicon.gifFlare.jpg

 

If I use this, do I connect male to male with the relevant union, or should I use a joiner which takes the male flare at each end?

I typed you up a long reply just after your initial post, but the site didn’t save it.


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#4 Rekusu

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Posted 24 October 2020 - 06:30 AM

Thanks.  Without wishing to teach you how to do it, you do know that the site has an auto-save feature?

 

Anyway, at the moment, anything to do with the brakes is taking a back seat until I get the Cyl 1 Knock Beyond Threshold Limit error sorted!


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#5 raynkar

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Posted 24 October 2020 - 11:16 AM

Thanks.  Without wishing to teach you how to do it, you do know that the site has an auto-save feature?

 

Anyway, at the moment, anything to do with the brakes is taking a back seat until I get the Cyl 1 Knock Beyond Threshold Limit error sorted!

Yes, it was the auto save that didn’t work.

The ‘saving’ graphic stayed up for ten minutes without saving.

I had to go out so switched off my ipad. When I turned it on later your thread wasn’t visible, and didn’t come back for some time.

Maybe that’s why you didn’t get replies.


You can put your vehicle info at the bottom of your posts to give details to help others know what you drive :)

#6 Communist

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Posted 24 October 2020 - 07:08 PM

You can reduce the loss of brake fluid by putting a rubber glove or plastic bag over the reservoir and screwing the cap on.

You might not need to replace the pipes, if there's only very minor surface crust on them, you can just clean that off and paint them. Depends on how bad it is.

Edited by Communist, 24 October 2020 - 07:08 PM.


#7 Rekusu

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Posted 24 October 2020 - 09:48 PM

Good idea.  Also saw on a Google search, about making a 'plug' with a new screw-in nut and a short length of flared brake pipe, squeezed closed as a temp. cap.


What if the Hokey Cokey IS what it's all about?




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