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DPF and O2 Sensor Error Codes


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#61 Bandit51

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Posted 02 July 2020 - 08:48 PM

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Hi Lee the MAP sensors do look very different, ask a daft question but are you sure that the new one is correct try refitting the old one and see if it still throws up a code as I suspect it might, the other code for the oxygen sensor means that the pre heater element has failed within the unit best policy would be to raise the matter with the vendor as this sometimes unfortunately occurs in mass produced parts I don't think its wiring but it may be worth checking the wiring the other side of the connector as this may have a corroded/broken wire if as you said the oxygen sensor wire was a little short it may have stressed something further up the line, also check for broken pins on the plug itself.

The oxygen sensor will cause all manner of weird codes I will enquire with an old mate of mine who used to be a diagnostic trouble shooter for Frauds, don't give up we have to crack this on principle.


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#62 gozzy

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Posted 03 July 2020 - 06:37 PM

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Hi mate,

I've ordered a new o2 sensor to be delivered Monday so hopefully that will sort it.

I swapped over the map sensors which has made a very slight difference to the rough running. I'm returning the new one and will keep the original in for now.

So I did another test drive which went the same as last time. I've attached a graph from forscan which has captured the point where the dtcs were logged 👍

It's hard to explain but on the graph the top lines are all throttle and accelerator readings. The bottom 2 are the o2 sensor readings.

It shows that while I was driving the o2 sensor was around 0 which is meant to be good I thought as if its high its running lean. Anyway I turned on cruise control as you can see by the pedal readings dropping to 0 and then the o2 sensor started increasing. This made sense as I was increasing the speed using the buttons on the steering wheel. The car then cut out with the engine management light on. As you can see at the end of the graph the throttle settings which are always 86% dropped to 0. So with this sharp drop of 86% it's not surprising it cut out. I don't think it dropped because the engine cut out because the value never changes. Even idling its 86%.

Anyway just thought I'd post the info incase its useful to anyone.

Roll on Monday 😁

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#63 Bandit51

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Posted 03 July 2020 - 08:31 PM

Hi Lee I would definitely be sending the old sensor back, I know its a B/Ache but better to get a refund, trouble with the MAP is some of these sites will tell you its correct but unless they quote the O.E. number in the description of other part numbers its not the right part, as for the failure I had the same with some upgraded headlight bulbs I bought for my daughters Mito, fitted them and four hours later one of them blew.

In all fairness the guy sent a spare set straight away and apologised for her having to drive home in the dark, she had stuffed main beam on and blitzed it home no drama, just one of the pitfalls of mass production I am afraid.

If you have a decent scrappy in your area might be worth snaffling a second hand MAP off a lower milage car just to see if that helps out after you fit the new oxygen sensor



#64 gozzy

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Posted 06 July 2020 - 02:46 PM

Hi,

Good news! 😁 I cleaned up my old o2 sensor, reset the values and so far no error codes. I ordered a new one which should be here tomorrow so as long as the cable is the same length I'll be fitting and testing that too.

So as it stands it looks like the vaporizer was the main fault or both. Maybe cleaning it sorted it out.

There's still a very small rough running between 1.5 and 1.7 rpm but nothing like it was.

I do have a leak from the fuel metering valve and also noticed 2 of the injectors have small leaks. One has a small black carbon leak and one seems like a rusty coloured leak 🤔

I'm going to let it all settle for a couple of weeks and then change the injector, high pressure fuel pump and fuel metering seals. Is there a kit I can buy with all the seals etc in?

Thanks

Edited by gozzy, 06 July 2020 - 02:50 PM.


#65 Bandit51

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Posted 06 July 2020 - 07:46 PM

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Hi Lee thats about as positive as it gets, I am really happy for you as you put in the time and effort and at last you are getting what you are due, a car that runs!.

With regard to the seals they are available on line I bought a metric fuel proof seal kit, [assorted sizes] as it worked out cheaper than buying the metering unit seal from Ford for just over a fiver, I got all the seals in all the sizes I will ever need for twelve quid, the fuel pump gasket is a paper unit which I bought from Fords quite cheaply.

The injector seals which I would be more concerned about are copper and are available online from United Diesels or Ford, if you leave these for to long especially the sooty one as they will cook into the crud and dynamite won't shift them, I have even seen them having to be drilled out because the exhaust gas when cooled dries like volcanic lava, you can't even chisel it off.

I used to change them myself but found through experience that the new seals don't last long normally as the reason they failed was the injector seat was damaged therefore I started to use a local independent garage who had the equipment to clean the injector chamber and re-cut the seat, this in general cured the problem permenantly, my way of checking for blow by was to spray a little upholstery foam around the top of the injector and watch for it being blown up in the air.


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#66 gozzy

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Posted 06 July 2020 - 08:48 PM

Thanks for all your help, couldn't have done it without ya 😁

There's only a very small amount but defo needs sorting asap.

I'll let you know how it goes and thanks again for all replies 👍




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