EGR valve - how stiff / sticky should the plunger be? - Exhausts / Induction (Mk3 Mondeo) - TalkFord.com

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EGR valve - how stiff / sticky should the plunger be?

egr valve egr replacement egr testing

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4 replies to this topic

#1 rajenkins

rajenkins

    Megger

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  • Vehicle Driven:Mondeo Mk3 2L Ghia X
  • Name:Robert
  • Location:Near Sheffield, England.

Posted 26 May 2019 - 02:52 PM

Hi,

 

Whilst doing various other bits on the engine I thought I'd check the EGR valve. 

 

After removing it and managing to extract the rusty screws holding the motor section on top, I found the plunger pretty much stuck solid.

It took a lot of force to get it to move at all, the first time & the movement through the full travel was rough.

 

I've flooded it with inlet cleaner and soaked it in light oil overnight and the movement through the range of travel is now completely smooth - but it still takes noticeably more force to start it moving off the seat than to move it the rest of the way, as if it's wedging in a taper when closed?

 

Does anyone know if this is normal, or is it just worn out?

 

Thanks,

Robert.

 


Robert Jenkins

Now running a 2007 Mondeo Ghia X Mk3 facelift, full leather interior etc.

 

The one below from the manifold photos is now retired - a hose blew July 2015.
2002 Mondeo Ghia Mk3 Hatchback - 2.0 Duratec; No mods except new thermostat & inlet manifold.

My Mondeo Manifold page: http://www.robertjen...ondeo/index.php


#2 FRANZ

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Posted 27 May 2019 - 10:00 AM

I think you would be better to replace it. The electromagnet in the part you removed must be strong enough to move the plunger and if it was seized and still difficult to move l would change it. If you could connect wires to the right terminals and connect to a battery it still probably would not open it.

Edited by FRANZ, 27 May 2019 - 10:04 AM.


#3 FRANZ

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Posted 27 May 2019 - 10:00 AM

I think you would be better to replace it. The electromagnet in the part you removed must be strong enough to move the plunger and if it was seized and still difficult to move l would change it. If you could connect wires to the right terminals it still probably would not open it.

#4 ST56

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Posted 27 May 2019 - 10:28 AM

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Hi

For smooth running it's more important that EGR stays closed rather than wedge open. Out of curiousity which EGR do you have, I would assume it would be Euro4. This has a stepper motor on the side turning a threaded spindle to open valve.

If this is the case water can penetrate circuitry on cover and cause failure. If this is the type you have there is a recent post on EGR's where I added a link to a Jaguar site selling genuine items for about £120.

https://www.britishp...-c26/diesel-t36

Site address added may be worth enquiring on delivery costs.

Peter

Edited by ST56, 27 May 2019 - 10:33 AM.

  • FRANZ likes this
MK5 Mondeo 5 Door Hatch 210PS Titanium X Full Bodykit on 19" Y-Spoke Wheels.
Previously Mondeo MK3 2.2 ST Tdci. (ST56MON).

Previously Mondeo MK2 ST200.

Previously Sierra XR4x4.

Previously Escort XR3i, Capri, Sierra, Escorts RS2000, RS1600, Mexico & 1300GT.
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#5 rajenkins

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Posted 27 May 2019 - 02:38 PM

Hi,

it's this style of EGR valve, with the stepper motor on top::

https://ae01.alicdn....7-1590848-1.jpg

 

[Don't worry, I'm not getting a Chinese clone one, that's just the first of the correct style on google images.]

 

 

Everything is badly oiled up on the inlet side and cruddy in the ports through the EGR valve etc., I think the PCV valve has been sticking and allowing excess oil mist through.

 

The PCV separator plate had a lot of granular looking carbon-like bits in it & if any of that got in the valve I can imagine it causing problems.


Robert Jenkins

Now running a 2007 Mondeo Ghia X Mk3 facelift, full leather interior etc.

 

The one below from the manifold photos is now retired - a hose blew July 2015.
2002 Mondeo Ghia Mk3 Hatchback - 2.0 Duratec; No mods except new thermostat & inlet manifold.

My Mondeo Manifold page: http://www.robertjen...ondeo/index.php






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