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idiot's guide to air conditioning
Started by
, Jul 12 2005 01:18 PM
62 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 12 July 2005 - 01:18 PM
guys, since the weather is finally pretty warm, and there seem to be a lot of questions about aircon, I thought I'd knock up this little guide. I don't pretend to be an expert, and I'm sure others can add to this, or correct me where I've got it wrong, but I hope it helps a little. Sorry if it should be in a different forum, but I thought more people would see it here
regards Simon
Basic operation
So you want to switch on the AC? When you push the button it sends a signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) which in turn engages the AC compressor clutch. As the compressor starts to turn it compresses the refrigerant (R134a) which makes it hot and turns it from a gas to a liquid. The hot refrigerant passes through the condenser mounted in front of the radiator. Outside air blows over the condenser and removes heat from the refrigerant, so now we have high pressure, cool refrigerant, condensed to a liquid. This liquid then passes through an expansion valve and is sprayed into the evaporator. This is another radiator-like component mounted inside the HVAC unit in the dash. As the refrigerant expands, it absorbs heat from the air, cooling the air which then enters the cabin. Blower settings on the dashboard simply adjust the speed of the airflow into the cabin. The refrigerant is now hot and gaseous again, so we need to cool it down. It is pumped into the condenser by the compressor and the whole cycle repeats.
What can go wrong?
The AC process is pretty simple, but there are a number of things that have to be working or else you won't get cold air out.
� Because dangerously high pressures can be generated in the system there is a pressure switch that will deactivate the AC when it reaches a certain pressure (around 35bar)
� Because the refrigerant also lubricates the compressor, it is important not to run the system when empty. There is a low pressure switch that will deactivate the AC if a certain pressure is not reached (6 or 7 bar)
� Because it takes power to turn the compressor, there is a danger the engine will stall at low revs. When AC is requested, the idle speed is normally increased slightly. If a minimum idle speed is not reached, the AC will be deactivated
� To cool the refrigerant in the condenser you need a certain amount of airflow. To get this the main cooling fan normally comes on when the AC is demanded. If the fan does not come on the AC will be deactivated
FAQ
Q the little green light is on but I am not getting cold air
A this just indicates that the request for AC is being made. Any of the issues listed above could be stopping the AC working. The light really only indicates that the switch works
Q I get cold air when driving, but when I stop in traffic it gets warm
A engine idle speed might be too low or the fan may not be working � see above
Q water is dripping from underneath the car � is this normal?
A perfectly normal. As the evaporator cools the outside air, it also dries it. The water condenses onto the evaporator and runs into a drip tray. When this is full it overflows onto the ground
Q what is the refrigerant specification
A R134a. This is the only legally allowed refrigerant apart from CO2 that is being developed as an alternative
Q how much refrigerant is in the system
A this should be noted on a label under the bonnet. When the car is under development, it is tested with less and less refrigerant in until the AC system stops working. This amount is then increased to allow for some leakage during the vehicle life, and that is the amount stated on the label � usually 600-750g
Q my AC works but the air isn't very cold
A the efficiency of the AC system is dependant on how much refrigerant is in the loop. Over time this can leak out slightly and you find that even on the lo setting the air isn't getting very cold. Unfortunately the only fix for this is to get the system professionally regassed
Q I've heard that I should run the AC from time to time
A since the refrigerant is used to lubricate the compressor you should run the system once a month or so for around 15mins to ensure the bearings don't dry out. This also stops any seals drying out which is typically where leaks start. Because the AC system dries the cabin air as well as cooling it, it reduces fogging in winter conditions too.
Q doesn�t it increase my fuel consumption?
A yes it does, because you are taking power from the engine to drive the compressor. The power loss depends on the engine and AC system installed, but can typically be up to 5%. I've driven cars where the fuel consumption doesn't seem to change, and others where using the AC increases the fuel consumption by 5-6mpg
regards Simon
Basic operation
So you want to switch on the AC? When you push the button it sends a signal to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) which in turn engages the AC compressor clutch. As the compressor starts to turn it compresses the refrigerant (R134a) which makes it hot and turns it from a gas to a liquid. The hot refrigerant passes through the condenser mounted in front of the radiator. Outside air blows over the condenser and removes heat from the refrigerant, so now we have high pressure, cool refrigerant, condensed to a liquid. This liquid then passes through an expansion valve and is sprayed into the evaporator. This is another radiator-like component mounted inside the HVAC unit in the dash. As the refrigerant expands, it absorbs heat from the air, cooling the air which then enters the cabin. Blower settings on the dashboard simply adjust the speed of the airflow into the cabin. The refrigerant is now hot and gaseous again, so we need to cool it down. It is pumped into the condenser by the compressor and the whole cycle repeats.
What can go wrong?
The AC process is pretty simple, but there are a number of things that have to be working or else you won't get cold air out.
� Because dangerously high pressures can be generated in the system there is a pressure switch that will deactivate the AC when it reaches a certain pressure (around 35bar)
� Because the refrigerant also lubricates the compressor, it is important not to run the system when empty. There is a low pressure switch that will deactivate the AC if a certain pressure is not reached (6 or 7 bar)
� Because it takes power to turn the compressor, there is a danger the engine will stall at low revs. When AC is requested, the idle speed is normally increased slightly. If a minimum idle speed is not reached, the AC will be deactivated
� To cool the refrigerant in the condenser you need a certain amount of airflow. To get this the main cooling fan normally comes on when the AC is demanded. If the fan does not come on the AC will be deactivated
FAQ
Q the little green light is on but I am not getting cold air
A this just indicates that the request for AC is being made. Any of the issues listed above could be stopping the AC working. The light really only indicates that the switch works
Q I get cold air when driving, but when I stop in traffic it gets warm
A engine idle speed might be too low or the fan may not be working � see above
Q water is dripping from underneath the car � is this normal?
A perfectly normal. As the evaporator cools the outside air, it also dries it. The water condenses onto the evaporator and runs into a drip tray. When this is full it overflows onto the ground
Q what is the refrigerant specification
A R134a. This is the only legally allowed refrigerant apart from CO2 that is being developed as an alternative
Q how much refrigerant is in the system
A this should be noted on a label under the bonnet. When the car is under development, it is tested with less and less refrigerant in until the AC system stops working. This amount is then increased to allow for some leakage during the vehicle life, and that is the amount stated on the label � usually 600-750g
Q my AC works but the air isn't very cold
A the efficiency of the AC system is dependant on how much refrigerant is in the loop. Over time this can leak out slightly and you find that even on the lo setting the air isn't getting very cold. Unfortunately the only fix for this is to get the system professionally regassed
Q I've heard that I should run the AC from time to time
A since the refrigerant is used to lubricate the compressor you should run the system once a month or so for around 15mins to ensure the bearings don't dry out. This also stops any seals drying out which is typically where leaks start. Because the AC system dries the cabin air as well as cooling it, it reduces fogging in winter conditions too.
Q doesn�t it increase my fuel consumption?
A yes it does, because you are taking power from the engine to drive the compressor. The power loss depends on the engine and AC system installed, but can typically be up to 5%. I've driven cars where the fuel consumption doesn't seem to change, and others where using the AC increases the fuel consumption by 5-6mpg
#2
Posted 12 July 2005 - 04:48 PM
Brilliant!!
This idiot is very grateful
Peter.

This idiot is very grateful
Peter.
#3
Posted 12 July 2005 - 04:54 PM
alternatively open the window!
seriously is a good guide
seriously is a good guide
#4
Posted 12 July 2005 - 06:01 PM
wow i lert a lot by reading that , brill job

No cars at the mo, just a company vehicle

#5
Posted 12 July 2005 - 07:31 PM
Very impressed and very handy guide there.
Great stuff.
Dan
Great stuff.
Dan

" Dont Argue with Idiots. They Drag you down to their level and then Beat you with their expertise! "
Hers.. Modified mk3 facelift Mondeo ZS hatch tdci.
His.. Mk 4 facelift Titanium X hatch
Gone.. Mk4 mondeo Ghia saloon
" You cant buy happiness but you can buy a mondeo and that's near enough "
#6
Posted 12 July 2005 - 08:11 PM
POPULAR
Doesn't work too well when the ambient air temp is 30+ degreesalternatively open the window!

- FacilisDK likes this
#7
Posted 12 July 2005 - 08:20 PM
cool guide


#8
Posted 12 July 2005 - 09:51 PM
great one,
just to add a/c does not work below approx 5 degrees..outside temp.
just to add a/c does not work below approx 5 degrees..outside temp.
1.8LX, Petrol (almost ghia X) Saloon W reg had since May 2002
standard rear discs, Traction, Elec mirrors, Front fogs, 3 Rear headrests, silver door handles, rear interior light.
MY MODS>>> bug eye lights.....short shifter gear stick.....ghia visors.....trip computer.....stereo remote.....coin mat.....alloys.....rear elec windows.....now has cruise control.....Ghia X full wood trim.....Ghia Sail panels.....wood handbrake cover.....black eye headlights, Anti dazzle HID kit.....ST mesh grille....Bomz kit....larger throttle body.....LED sidelights & interior/footwells.....rear foot well lights.....colour coded door handles, full heated leather who knows whats next!!!
standard rear discs, Traction, Elec mirrors, Front fogs, 3 Rear headrests, silver door handles, rear interior light.
MY MODS>>> bug eye lights.....short shifter gear stick.....ghia visors.....trip computer.....stereo remote.....coin mat.....alloys.....rear elec windows.....now has cruise control.....Ghia X full wood trim.....Ghia Sail panels.....wood handbrake cover.....black eye headlights, Anti dazzle HID kit.....ST mesh grille....Bomz kit....larger throttle body.....LED sidelights & interior/footwells.....rear foot well lights.....colour coded door handles, full heated leather who knows whats next!!!
#9
Posted 12 July 2005 - 10:08 PM
alternatively open the window!
seriously is a good guide
Yeahh right, main reason I got rid of the MK1 was lack of air con.
1.8 X-Reg MK2, 59K, new engine, traction control, mud flaps, footwell, 2nd boot light, MK3 drivers grip handle, charcoal repeaters, mesh front grille, silver handbrake, Momo gear knob,MEG rear brake light illumination, ghia interior lights.
#10
Posted 12 July 2005 - 10:53 PM
gettin mine regased on thursday hope thats all it needs

it has been said that the purpose of my life
is to serve as a WARNING to others
saab 2.2tid vector estate
astra gte 16v rally car
2.0 yreg capri
is to serve as a WARNING to others
saab 2.2tid vector estate
astra gte 16v rally car
2.0 yreg capri
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