10 replies to this topic

[djtetei]

Hello everyone!

I drive a Ford Mondeo MK1, trim variant GLX, manufactured in 1993, powered by 1.6 cmc 16v Zetec E engine.

The car has no air conditioning fitted, only the standard heater blower.

My heater resistor pack failed to work so I disable it in order to be replaced with a new one.

My heater blower system now works in direct mode, without the heater resistor pack mounted.

Today, while I was driving with heating switched on, I felt a burning smell in the cabin and soon I noticed smoke coming through the heater control panel - center control switch, so I turned off the heat.

I would be grateful if you could help me diagnose the failure and suggest possible solutions.

My hunch would be that the problem could be the central control switch failure or a cable behind the heater control panel.

Thank you!

[Gary Price]

The heater blower motor takes a lot of power to run it at highest speed. The wiring has to be in good condition, as you have already found out he resistor pack often causes problems.

You will need to check out the rest of the wiring and switches. If you have seen/smelt smoke /burning the damage should be visible.

If you need to get replacement parts, its good idea to to get them off a scrap car with some of the wiring, its often the connectors that are also damaged. Then solder the new wiring to the old wires after cutting off the damage.

[steveo69]

The heater blower motor takes a lot of power to run it at highest speed. The wiring has to be in good condition, as you have already found out he resistor pack often causes problems.

You will need to check out the rest of the wiring and switches. If you have seen/smelt smoke /burning the damage should be visible.

If you need to get replacement parts, its good idea to to get them off a scrap car with some of the wiring, its often the connectors that are also damaged. Then solder the new wiring to the old wires after cutting off the damage.

 

 yep  what GP said  ,

 

  when I had my mk1 v6 ghia x ,  one time I was coming back from a days fishing in the winter , smelt smoke & then smoke inside the car ,  guesses it was blower  motor  & or resistor ,    went to fords next day  , parts bloke said mk1 one guys were always in for a resistor  , & they had a superceeded part , with thicker gauge wiring attached .  because of  the original factory installed ones melting . course very  much doubt any of these are still instock at fords  , this was in the about 15 /18 years ago

 

also , be an idea to take the blower motor out , & check if  motor is seizing, , should spin freely  , if its stiff ,  motor draws more amps , & can cause wires to melt , even before a fuse blows !

Edited by steveo69, 28 December 2015 - 05:57 PM.

[djtetei]

Thank you kindly for you prompt reply!

My heater resistor coil pack (FINIS 6716733 / FORD 93BW-18B647-AB) is the original part fitted in the factory assembly line. When I removed the heater resitor coil pack from behind the glove compartment, I inspected the connectors and the wiring and it was all good.

I suspect the problem lies behind the heater control panel and is due to a switch connector or wiring.

I also take into consideration the possibility of pollen filter clogging that leads to bad ventilation behind the heater control panel and wiring overheating.

What would you say?

Edited by djtetei, 28 December 2015 - 06:10 PM.

[siruncle]

http://www.mirez.co.uk/HeaterPack.htm

have a read

[djtetei]

I already read this tutorial and I am aware of the heater resistor pack issue.

But my resitor is this:

The heater resistor pack connector and wiring is ok.

[djtetei]

This summer I removed the heater blower, clean it and grease it, because it had become noisy.

Now it started to be noisy again. Now I'd like to clean it again, because due to dirt inside the heater blower consume too much power.

[djtetei]

Today I removed the heater blower from my car and found the connector and wiring are in very good shape, but the fan shaft have play and the bush, coals and rotor shows signs of excessive wear. Because of worn components, I concluded that the heater consumes more power than necessary.

I sent the heater blower at a specialized workshop to be refurbished. Specifically, I requested the replacement of the heater blower motor. If the heater can not be refurbished, I must replace it with a new one.

I could look for a used heater blower, but I fear that it will present evidence of excessive wear due to years of operation on the donor vehicle and sooner or later I will end up replacing it with a new one.

Edited by djtetei, 30 December 2015 - 04:45 PM.

[siruncle]

I already read this tutorial and I am aware of the heater resistor pack issue.

But my resitor is this:

The heater resistor pack connector and wiring is ok.

that is an early resistor pack, but the newer type ones (like below) will fit in the same hole and plug straight in. These you can find in most fords from about 1988 to some models today. The only ones that are different are ones made from blue plastic (usually found in aircon models), the white or black plastic ones are ok to use.

definitely can be found (usually in the same place) in:

• Ford Focus 1998 - 2005 - Focus C-Max 2003 - 2007
• Ford Mondeo 1993 - 2007 - Ford Galaxy 2000 - 2006
• Ford Fiesta 2003 - 2013 - Ford Fusion 2002 - 2012
• Ford Transit Connect 2002 - 2013 and Ford KA Cougar Puma and Kuga
  
   

 

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[stuparu_alexandru]

Am I glad to see you talking about this. I have a problem regarding this as well. My heater only works on lever 4 (max) either hot or cold. the direction for it to flow is good on all levels (feet, body, windshield etc). What should I change because people keep telling me it`s from the command switch, but other people tell me that it`s from the picture Siruncle posted, and that those 4 metal things are gone and should be replaced ?