Ford Automobiles Forum banner

£150 Mistral - operation MoT

175K views 474 replies 31 participants last post by  ffoy 
#1 ·
Hi folks. Just got this cheap from a friend. Looks tidy, but won't pass MoT :( .

DSC08881_zps4qejnbxk.jpg

DSC08880_zpspzb7oamz.jpg

DSC08879_zpsjkotkrwn.jpg

DSC08878_zpswerb5ali.jpg

So far I need to deal with:

  • engine management light permanently on
  • same with ABS light
  • rusted front brake pipes
  • horrendous noise from drivetrain (inner CV joint?)
  • broken OSF coil spring

I've ordered a new spring and wheel bearing plus 1 ABS sensor :huh: and got a used driveshaft for £20 from a breaker yesterday.

Should get started on things on Saturday and hopefully get MoT'd soon
 
See less See more
4
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'm not sure exactly what the Mistral spec is or where it fits in the range but the guys above seem to know their onions.

Anyway. Where are we with this....

iirc 2 Friday's ago (29th) I set about loosening off all the bolts to get into the driveshaft (as I was convinced the terrible noise was coming from there) but the first thing that struck me was the coil spring had snapped :eek:

So I tentatively put things back together and ordered from Ebay a coil spring and wheel bearing and then the following Wednesday, having knocked-off work early, went round the local breakers to look for a driveshaft.

Surprisingly there weren't many Mondeos in the yards, and any that were - were diesels. Late into the afternoon we found one yard with a petrol Mk3.

The car was predictably wedged-in between other cars and the OSF wasn't accessible, but the NSF was.

I know the left and right driveshafts are different lengths but (having had a similar problem with my old Suzuki Swift years ago) know that the bit which fails, on the inner joint, is the spider/tripod and I could therefore just use the inner joint off it or even just the spider.

Also someone else had been in and removed the strut before me so all I had to do was pop out the driveshaft.

This took much longer than I expected as the car was flat on the ground and it took a long time and many broken tyre-changing-jacks to get the thing up high enough to get any leverage behind it.

It was good practise for removing my own ones later I guess. The guy charged me £20 which seemed fair enough but I heard later you can get reconditioned ones for just over £30 :rolleyes:

My wheel bearing arrived on Thursday but I wasn't in and this happened again on the Friday.

On Saturday I fitted the coil spring. I've done this before on other cars without much trouble. The broken spring came off without much trouble but fitting the new one proved more difficult. Basically two compressors weren't enough as the spring need to be compressed down until the coils are touching almost before the top mount could be fitted on.

With the two compressors I had on tightened to the max the spring was still too long. You can't remove then to start again on another coil so it was a case of - cycle to Halfords and buy another set at £30!

I was also rather pleased that the extremely rusty OSF brake pipe unscrewed from the hose with little drama. A sharp action on the mole-grips gave a pleasing cracking sound. Hopefully the others would yield as easily.

I was also amazed that the screw for the ABS sensor came out too. So I replaced the sensor and drove home feeling safer with the new spring but still that noise and unsurprisingly ABS light still on.

Whilst I was working on the driver's side I felt for play in the driveshaft inner joint and there was none. My co-pilot said he could feel the rumbling on his side of car so maybe I was in luck getting the NSF driveshaft after all. That was a job for another day as the coil spring took me most of the day.

DSC08886_zpslgnuebtn.jpg

front spring has snapped at some point

DSC08887_zps41yt4okq.jpg

looks pretty dangerous

DSC08888_zps63zyg7lz.jpg

sticker on shock gives a lot of data

DSC08889_zpswauu0ofp.jpg

new spring

DSC08890_zpsou5carw6.jpg

unusual 18mm nut on strut-top. I have no 18mm ring spanner

DSC08891_zps16oyipyk.jpg

DSC08892_zpsfa4ksxft.jpg

old broken spring compressed fine with 2 clamps

DSC08893_zpsbynag3th.jpg

lift off the spring and various parts

DSC08894_zpsp454uwvx.jpg

now we need to make the new one this short

DSC08895_zpsw4tknmeg.jpg]

which required more clamps
 
#7 · (Edited)
so with the OSF spring replaced and no obvious source for the noise I was getting whilst driving I turned to the NSF for a look. This was on Monday and the rain was pretty bad. I got the strut off just before thunder and lightning started and could then move inside to take the bearing out as it was clear this was worn when I spun the hub but there was no obvious play in it when the wheel etc were still on.

DSC08898_zpssde20k0y.jpg

driveshaft nut comes undone quite easily with a heavy duty breaker bar. this is a 3/4" drive type and pretty long. well worth the investment as they aren't expensive

DSC08899_zpsdsvc2vpe.jpg

this is a good point for an axle stand once car is up in the air

DSC08900_zpsb4uck639.jpg

caliper mounting bolts have 15mm head but can be rather tight and even a six-sided socket might slip

DSC08903_zpsyczf5aia.jpg

I found forcing a 14mm socket on gave a better grip

DSC08907_zpsiz18fp4g.jpg

DSC08912_zpsyifkmbno.jpg

balljoint pinch-bolt nut is an unusual 18mm size as with shock-absorber nut

DSC08914_zpst4vxfd0a.jpg

quite a lot of leverage is required to pull arm/balljoint down from strut. G-clamp on arm (with some packing) gives something to lever down upon

DSC08915_zpsefdg7czd.jpg

but I cracked both of mine and substituted it with a ratchet strap which worked fine

I intended to remove the hub/bearing with my press but resorted to good old fashioned hammering and grinding because it was easier: The hub could be pressed out of the bearing inner races but you'd need to find/engineer some thin supports to go between the flange (bit that road-wheel attaches to) and the strut/knuckle whilst pressing down on the thin/tube end of the hub. If you hit it firmly with a large hammer the hub flies out taking the outboard inner rice with it and ball bearing over the floor. You than need to remove the race from the hub and this could be done with a puller or again with some sort of supports behind the race and pressure on the hub to push it down through the race.

I opted to slice it with a thin disc on the angle grinder then crack it with a hammer once it was weakened. Not pretty but works fine if you are careful not to gouge the hub tube.

The inboard-inner race of the bearing and the outer race will still be in the strut at this point and the inner can be popped out by hand. All that's then left to do is remove the outer. You'd need a really large drift/block to push down on it as it is quite wide.

I found a thick piece of steel and cut it to roughly the diameter of the bearing then ground the corners off and thumped the race out with a large hammer.

Bit disappointed that I had to resort to force when I have the press but at least I'll be able to use it to press in the new one quickly and cleanly hopefully.

DSC08917_zpsrhofbmk2.jpg

when hub is hammered out of strut/wheel-bearing the outboard inner-race will be stuck on it. it can be drawn off or cut off

DSC08918_zpslkyjlyfp.jpg

bar-of-soap-shaped device made up to push/hammer outer bearing race from the strut/knuckle
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
So, Monday the bearing was out and I just needed to get the bearing that was 'failed delivery' the previous Thursday/Friday.

Well. I finished work early on Wednesday and couldn't find anyone to give me a lift to the depot which is about 10/15 miles away so I decided to get a bus down. Just before I jumped on I phoned the parcel company to let them know I was coming and they advised me the bearing was returned to sender - that morning :darn:

So on Friday I got one from a local motor factors for £33. The original was only £12 (fre P&P) so that failed delivery has cost me quite a bit.

DSC08953_zps3v1kgmrp.jpg

new bearing - £33

DSC08954_zpsmar9mkkw.jpg

DSC08957_zpscf6tfdem.jpg

not sure if these markings can be used to identify bearing size/type as is normally the case

DSC08958_zps8z0qvwu3.jpg
 
#9 ·
So. That's me got a new bearing but let's have a look at the old one

DSC08937_zpspyxvtmq4.jpg

old bearing parts re-assembled. this is outboard face (ie side nearest road-wheel)

DSC08938_zpsnbksbi9b.jpg

and this is inboard face with rubber seal

DSC08939_zpswjivjdlo.jpg

when hub is drifted out it takes outboard inner-race with it and you inevitably lose some of the ball bearings

DSC08940_zpsdcryj6il.jpg

which sit inside this plastic cage on the outer race

DSC08941_zpsjbpanuco.jpg

which lifts off to reveal same set-up on the other side

DSC08944_zpszpjbybg3.jpg

if you flip it over these lift out also

DSC08946_zpsyhycwji5.jpg

bearing races were in fine condition on outboard side

DSC08947_zpsl28qjsb0.jpg

but very bad on inboard side - outer race....

DSC08950_zpswzlpk4ho.jpg

....and inner

DSC08962_zpsi2cwxft3.jpg

you can actually see that the (complete) set of balls from the inboard side are rusty and discoloured in comparison to the (incomplete) set of balls from the outboard side
 
#11 ·
DSC08914_zpst4vxfd0a.jpg

quite a lot of leverage is required to pull arm/balljoint down from strut. G-clamp on arm (with some packing) gives something to lever down upon
NB - the Haynes manual advises you should not lever down on the lower-arm the separate the balljoint from the knuckle as it will damage the rear bush on the lower arm. They advise the subframe should be lowered. Tool ate for me to do that now but it might not be as much hassle as it sounds.

The reason I used the leverage technique is that I saw on YouTube that garages have a special tool to pull the lower arm down (big lever which presses against engine and has hook which goes onto lower arm) and it was only after successfully doing this that I read the caution in the Haynes manual
 
#12 ·
i've always put a block of wood on the jack, jacked the hub up (usually on the disc) a bit, then stuck a big long bar over the top of the wishbone, and under the subframe and just pushed down till it pops out. Done them on every car i've had the pleasure of bottom baljoint popping. Should be easier on a mk3 than a 2 as one of the mk3 bushes is the opposite direction to the other (unlike mk2's). If you are not seriously overstretching the bush, you should be fine.
 
#14 · (Edited by Moderator)
So with the front bearing out and the coil-spring replaced I turned my attention to the brake pipes. I said previously that the front ones looked rusty.

Well, the rear did too and I found myself removing them all one afternoon. It was a very frustrating job underneath as I didn't have the car up high enough and the ground I was working on was of mud and road chippings so it wasn't possible to slide my trolley around.

Rust dropping in eyes, bumps to head and soggy clothing added to the depressing aesthetics of a rusty underbody made for a demoralising experience.

I also couldn't get the N/S/F pipe off as it was very tight on top of the ABS module and there wasn't very good access as it is situated under the servo.

I tried to get some free play for the N/S/R pipe by removing the LHS fuel-tank strap which involved loosening an underbody heatshield to get at the strap but it still snapped as I was wiggling it out. The O/S/R is a lot shorter but wouldn't come out from above the crossmember so I gave up for the day.

The job would be a lot easier with the engine and rear subframe out but that's maybe taking things too far...

DSC08920_zpsu6tsf5ar.jpg

can't believe the nick these wheels are in

DSC08921_zpsntbwzjia.jpg

at least one caliper has been replaced

DSC08923_zpsu2x1gniu.jpg

exhaust is rather rusty

DSC08924_zpsjdordnqj.jpg

just needs a clean and something sprayed on it

DSC08925_zpsdpdnwdke.jpg

would be easy to get pipes off if all this wasn't in the way

DSC08926_zpsguxr36cp.jpg

N/S/R pipe wanders off above subframe and over to RHS of car

DSC08931_zpsyxxgom6a.jpg

rear pipes join to under-car pipes near fuel filler neck

DSC08932_zpsu4mjnngo.jpg

rear ends of under-car brake pipes

DSC08933_zps02qw2zoc.jpg

these look too far gone to me

DSC08935_zpsn4fibojg.jpg

front ends are in better condition (they live in engine bay)
 
#16 · (Edited by Moderator)
So. It was Thursday night that I got the pipes off.... but there were still two to come off so I returned to it on Sunday afternoon after some reading of the manual which suggested that taking the servo off isn't a job likely to cause any problems (ie disturbing seals or something) so I wrestled that out. Basically if you can undo the two 13mm union nuts on the M/C, pull off some hoses and push out the 'R' clip & white nylon clevis pin it comes off and you can get good access to the top of the ABS unit.

As this is aluminium and the brake pipe unions are steel they seemed to be very tough to budge. If something snaps or strips you'd be looking at a replacement ABS unit :(

The split ring spanner I was using was just rounding the union nut and I considered cutting the pipe off close to the union and putting a socket on it to get max grip but as I couldn't find my 11mm socket right then had the bizarre idea to run a full ring spanner along from the other end (ie the wheelwell) past the various bends and obstacles to the ABS unit. It worked :p

It was then time to wrestle out the O/S/R. After a half hour or so of trying to wiggle it free I just snapped the end of and dragged it out. Part of the reason for trying to get it out in one piece was to save the shape for making up the copy but that's a bit dumb as I won't be able to get that back in over the crossmember.

Anyway. I folded them all up (not tightly) and stuck them in my rucksack to examine/measure the following day and go and get new ones made up at the local motor-factors.

Also finished off the night Googling re Mondeo subframes. Seems they aren't too hard to remove and even more surprisingly you can get re-furbished ones for about £60. Tempting..... ^_^

DSC08977_zpso9dhu7mc.jpg

disconnect this pipe from servo (push fit)

DSC08976_zpsde3qayn6.jpg

separating these two gives a little extra room for manouvre

DSC08978_zpsmqm7wt4p.jpg

as does moving aside air filter top casing, by removing 3 screws

DSC08975_zpszfvfhv9r.jpg

nuts holding servo to this bracket are reachable but it is also connected to arm inside bracket with clevis pin. not easy to get to and will be even harder to replace

DSC08980_zpsoj8owtfd.jpg

hope this rust on strut tops doesn't fail MoT

DSC08989_zps2jppxzvy.jpg

removing/replacing rear brake pipes would be easy if crossmember removed but these bolts look seized solid

DSC08983_zpskgzvmqmq.jpg

as do these, on arms from crossmember to struts

DSC08985_zpsbom4rt2g.jpg
 
#18 · (Edited by Moderator)
So, Monday came and I spent the early part of the afternoon measuring, re-measuring and re-measuring all the brake pipes before approaching the motor factors. All the time thinking of the time I got some done for my Polo and had to watch the guy 'measuring' them whilst talking to his mate on a wintery Saturday PM. I got to my garage with them, about 10 miles away from the shop, to find some of them about a foot short and I had no transport to get back there :angry:

I was determined this wouldn't happen again. In case anyone is interested here are the specs:

  • N/S/F: 60cm - 2 male fittings
  • O/S/F: 117cm - 1 male & 1 female fitting
  • N/S/R: 166cm - 2 male
  • O/S/R: 114cm - 1 male & 1 female
  • N/S/Fr-Rr: 345cm - 2 female
  • O/S/Fr-Rr: 299cm - 2 male

DSC08969_zpswoop6ln5.jpg

brake pipes to be unfurled and measured

So. I set off on the bicycle with my rusty pipes and the stats to find the shop which I used to go to is now a nail salon, I then popped round to the motor factors that I got the wheel bearing from and it was no can do there but with a suggestion that an MoT station could make them for me. I then cycled into the next town to try another place I used to get them. Now an estate agents.

So I headed back to the garage and the landlord and his labourer were saying 'big Jim could make them up for you etc, have a beer blah blah blah'. I protested I wanted to achieve something with my day (ie fit the front wheel bearing) but I was soon drinking with them. They retired about 9 and doing the bearing seemed a bit unrealistic so I turned to the subframe.

Rather surprisingly all the rusty bolts came out no problem and the unit was soon wiggled out :biggrin: which will make re-fitting the pipes a lot easier - if I ever get any!

DSC08985_zpsbom4rt2g.jpg

rusty bolt

DSC08986_zps53xboevd.jpg

another rusty bolt

DSC08992_zpsmxblbche.jpg

amazed at how clean the bolts connecting lower-arms the rear-knuckles were

DSC08993_zpsycmqihfg.jpg

subframe-to-body bolts weren't too bad either

DSC08999_zpst6vybucp.jpg

once detached I pulled unit out to one side

DSC09000_zpsvco4hzz8.jpg

which allowed other side to drop below strut/knuckle....

DSC09002_zpswupj588a.jpg

.....and be pulled out. NB unit is not as heavy as Haynes manual suggests

DSC09004_zpskicicmtf.jpg

would be nice to have it powdercoated

DSC09001_zpsry8d7hqe.jpg

exhaust needs to be lowered to get crossmember out. was sufficient to unhook from rubbers and rest on something to avoid strain up at CAT end
 
#20 ·
Don't forget if your car will be off road for an extended period of time to look after the battery.
If you don't periodically charge it while in storage it can get damaged or fail.
A bad battery is the last thing you want as you try to start car on completion.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ffoy
#21 ·
Well. That's the front wheel bearing in and I am in the middle of doing the brake pipes after buying an excellent little tool called the Flaremaster 2 (Sykes Pickavant). I'm off to finish the pipes just now so not got time to update the thread with all the pics but there is one thing I'm worrying about.....

The bearings have a magnetic sensor in them for the ABS. It's not clear from looking at them which side has this so I copied the way the old bearing went in and the convention for bearings - ie writing facing you when it is in situ.

I had a look at the Haynes manual later :kaffeetrinker_2: and it advises

"Caution: The bearing must be fitted with the ABS wheel speed sensor ring, coloured black, towards the wheel speed sensor end of the knuckle...."

My Moog bearing didn't have any obvious black ring on it but the rubber seal at the writing end is black and this is the part I fitted facing out. ie not in at the wheel sensor. The part I fitted at the wheel sensor side has a metal plate , instead of a seal, and no writing. It's going to be a major pain to remove and destroy the bearing if it's in the wrong way :dang:

DSC09063_zpsltev0vsy.jpg

have I put bearing in wrong way round? no black ring per Haynes manual

DSC08954_zpsmar9mkkw.jpg

should this end have went towards sensor?

DSC09080_zpstrm60h0l.jpg

making up new pipes with the Flaremaster 2
 
#23 ·
I'm 99.99999% sure it's in wrong. Just after posting I Googled about it and everything pointed to the black ring above being the magnet side. I actually remember when I refitted the strut that little particles of rust scale were being attracted to it. Just behind the brake-disc hub.

I'll leave it in till it fails the MoT and if there's not a lot of other things wrong will go through the whole process again. Otherwise I'll cut my losses and scrap it :sick:
 
#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
So, going back to where I was before the reversed wheel bearing issue struck me, I was re-fitting the N/S/F strut and embarking on making up brake pipes.

Well the tool I bought is great. It's the mid-price option for a brake pipe flaring tool. You can get very cheap ones which don't produce great results afaik and a dearer type which mount in a vice and have a sort of lever/punch action on them.

After much deliberation I went for this at £99.99 and I can't see why you'd need the dearer one. You can produce the flares in less than a minute with no effort. It takes much longer to prepare the ends of the pipes neatly than it does to make the flare and you'd need to do this regardless of which flaring tool you use.

The first pipe I made up was the NSF which is a nice short one to start with. This is the only one which goes directly to the ABS unit and was pretty much stuck in there. The end at the hose which gets all the muck etc thrown at it was less damaged in removal susprisingly.

DSC09055_zpshueasu23.jpg

1st pipe to be replicated is NSF. only tool required with the Flaremaster 2 is a 16mm spanner to tighten nut on die-clamp

DSC09056_zpsxeelplgn.jpg

ABS-unit end of NSF pipe badly rounded attempting to undo it

DSC09057_zpskanrvb7m.jpg

rusty end came off much easier

DSC09059_zpsoqofmr4a.jpg

comparing male fittings supplied with new pipe against original. "same same but different" as they say in Thailand

DSC09060_zpsz8sezejz.jpg

new DIN single flare formed with Flaremaster 2 looks ok with new fitting. time will tell if seal is good

DSC09062_zpspfsrcwtx.jpg

pipe shaped up by hand against original

DSC09129_zps2jfgixqu.jpg

and fitted to ABS unit

I then moved onto the OSF which was bent out of shape dragging it out from where is sits along the bulkhead. The end which goes in the wheelarch with a few right angle bends in it was ok. I copied the new one from it despite knowing one end was out of shape but as it was a relatively straight bit I could sort that out when fitting it.

DSC09076_zpsxr39srib.jpg

original OSF pipe has gained some curves when being pulled out of engine bay...

DSC09077_zpseefavnpc.jpg

new pipe copied against it however and can correct shape when fitting it

DSC09083_zpsmdpb1qre.jpg

bends can be accurately replicated by hand with a little care

That's the ten-pic limit reached which calls for a break in proceedings...
 
#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
DSC09120_zps36hvje18.jpg

when removing/fitting OSF pipe at wheel end access can be improved by removing plastic shield

DSC09122_zpstr3owkgz.jpg

pipe comes from hose under this rail and clips in at end

DSC09123_zpswbrq9bnt.jpg

then disappears upwards

DSC09124_zpspe8d3uok.jpg

towards then under brake-servo actuating bar/tube

DSC09125_zpsnwuo4doc.jpg

clips into top of bulkhead-mounted clips

DSC09127_zpsykgilweo.jpg

then meets short length of pipe which connects to ABS (presumably provided to make access easier)

So that was as far as I got with the brake pipes and it was time to re-fit the NSF strut c/w incorrectly-fitted bearing. Having previously changed the spring on the OSF strut I noticed something didn't look right with the top bearing on the NSF and ended up taking it off to investigate further. It's definitely damaged and looks to me like someone has had it off before and possibly fitted it incorrectly and/or lost some bearings from it. There are some deep gouges in it. The top mount has an arrow on it to tell you which way it goes on car but the Haynes advice 'The arrow and white line on the top mount must face the front of the car facing the front of the car' isn't too clear. Does is mean the arrow should be at the front (pointing left & right) or that the arrow should point towards the front (and rear)? I reckon the latter. The spring on this side is a KYB which is an aftermarket part afaik so I guess the bearing could have been damaged or put on incorrectly if the spring was changed at some point. You can actually see where the rubber mount has been on the car if you look up into the strut-housing as there will be a mark on the paint made by the rubber. This doesn't really help however if the thing has been disturbed and put back on incorrectly as there may then be two marks :unsure:

DSC09066_zps575fre7q.jpg

NSF top mount/bearing looks damaged

DSC09068_zpstl5xmy0q.jpg

and doesn't seem to be sitting correctly

DSC09064_zpsosucginw.jpg

KYB spring suggest this is not original and may explain damage to top-mount
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top