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£150 Mistral - operation MoT


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469 replies to this topic

#461 ffoy

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Posted 01 December 2020 - 10:24 PM

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I'm building up quite a few pics of things being stripped by electrolysis or cleaned after it or after painting but not sure if there's any point posting it all however.....

 

I said, a few posts back, that I had to deal with the (10mm head) ARB-clamp bolts. The subframe will only fit in my water-tank with the ARB off and having de-rusted all the other bits (just about) I'm keen to get the subframe in but the bolts weren't wanting to shift despite liberal use of penetrant (ATF) on them so I thought I'd try dipping the end of the assy in to get rid on the rust on the threads in the box-section. It's amazing how soft the process makes it.

 

I'd already got past the stage of a 10mm single-hex fitting the bolt and then a 9mm was rounding it so I was down to *mm or various small AF/Whitworth things I had lying around but nothing was shifting it so I started cutting the flange off (where possible) with the Dremel things. 

 

I was just about to give up at midnight - having had a long day at work then dragging myself down to the barn about 9pm (to get tools for next day's work) - when It finally shifted with a 12-point 5/16AF socket on it. I'd burst a good 8mm one and things were getting desperate so it was a huge relief. As soon as it moved it came out easily so I'm pretty sure it wasn't the threads holding it back but the flange.

 

Got the other side in the tank now and will deal with that tomorrow. That head hasn't been touched yet so plan is to leave it well alone until as much flange as possible is removed than a 9mm hammered on should do it.

 

 

1diI2oZ.jpg

10mm becoming 8mm + part of flange cut off 

 

 

GP5tTfy.jpg

hurrah. 1 ARB-clamp off without ruing thread in box-section

 

 

J4wUN1u.jpg

electrolysis really softens rust quickly

 

 

naYVP0D.jpg

parts dried and brushed-off after electrolysis

 

 

xuZl6Ty.jpg

subframe will fit in tank once ARB is off it


Edited by ffoy, 01 December 2020 - 10:28 PM.

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#462 Communist

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Posted 04 December 2020 - 07:28 PM

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No more! That level of rust is giving me nightmares!  :biggrin: 

Nice job cleaning up those calipers. The epoxy mastic has a relatively short shelf life. Couple of years at most. Make good use of your tins of it, mine went horrible.

 

yes I have my doubts about this mastic stuff. used it before (Rustbusters 121) and it seemed to offer zero rust-protection but since you hear so many glowing reports about it I'm trying again with the Bilt Hamber stuff. Probably be just as bad.

 

I think normal paint systems would work better tbh but thought I'd give this one more try. I'm also top-coating it with stone-chip which may help 

 

 

stonechip over mastic

 

Yeah the rustbusters stuff is what I had.

 

Eventually I found a method of treatement that seems to hold rust at bay. I had a seriously rotten step bracket from my old campervan that I did this with, and there wasn't a spot of rust coming through it a year later, which really surprised me given just how bad it was.

 

1. Remove all the rust with some kind of belt sander.

2. Kurust or any kind of acid based rust converer to try and mop up any remaining rust.

3. At least two coats of Zinc primer.

4. Four coats of metal paint. Doesn't seem to matter what it is, just so long as you use a lot of coats.

5. Smear grease over everything.

 

It seems like each of those things helps, but the combination of all of them makes for decent protection. I'm going to renew the grease in the wheel arches every year and see how that goes. I decided to do that instead of underseal because there is no risk of the grease flaking off, trapping moisture and making the problem worse. It's also cheap and widely available.

 

Electrolysis works wonders on those ARB brackets. Should be able to even read the numbers in there when you're done! I was going to do the knuckles as you have, but they weren't that bad and I couldn't seperate them from the shocks with the equipment I have. They got a quick paint but I don't expect it to last.


Edited by Communist, 04 December 2020 - 07:31 PM.

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#463 ffoy

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Posted 04 December 2020 - 11:54 PM

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So a little more progress. The weather is vile just now so I just CANNOT face lying under the car but will have to get back on it soon. The electrolysis etc is continuing tho.
 
I got the other ARB-bracket screw out no probs the other night. Basically cut away as much of the flange as I could with the Dremel and it came out no probe with a 9mm bashed on. 
 
MZxlIco.jpg
2nd ARB-bracket screw yields after the flange treatment
 
I also got a new rear brake-hose. Yes just one. Why? Well I like to hoover-up odd parts from private sellers, rather than buy off a big company, if possible and last time I bought Borg & Beck ones and I found one of these for £5.50 (plus £1.83 P&P) so bought that and I'm sure another will pop up soon. I'm not actually going to change the ones on this car right now as the old ones are fine - just look awful.
 
Interestingly when I bought them last time (go back to post #72 from Aug 2015) I commented on how the hose said Semperit on it. Well this one actually says Borg & Beck lol. same same but different  :P
 
 
v1uhDmF.jpg
FtseLtG.jpg
someone on Ebay got rid of their odd brake-hose
 
 
XigaKvT.jpg
bAgWR3n.jpg
not that old stock and this time hose says Borg & Beck 
 
 
fkDhuwE.jpgmXw8yzv.jpg
these pips/tangs fit in star-shape hole on bracket presumably to keep it still while you tighten pipe-nut

Edited by ffoy, 04 December 2020 - 11:55 PM.

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#464 ffoy

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Posted 05 December 2020 - 12:01 AM

 

 

No more! That level of rust is giving me nightmares!  :biggrin: 

Nice job cleaning up those calipers. The epoxy mastic has a relatively short shelf life. Couple of years at most. Make good use of your tins of it, mine went horrible.

 

yes I have my doubts about this mastic stuff. used it before (Rustbusters 121) and it seemed to offer zero rust-protection but since you hear so many glowing reports about it I'm trying again with the Bilt Hamber stuff. Probably be just as bad.

 

I think normal paint systems would work better tbh but thought I'd give this one more try. I'm also top-coating it with stone-chip which may help 

 

 

stonechip over mastic

 

Yeah the rustbusters stuff is what I had.

 

Eventually I found a method of treatement that seems to hold rust at bay. I had a seriously rotten step bracket from my old campervan that I did this with, and there wasn't a spot of rust coming through it a year later, which really surprised me given just how bad it was.

 

1. Remove all the rust with some kind of belt sander.

2. Kurust or any kind of acid based rust converer to try and mop up any remaining rust.

3. At least two coats of Zinc primer.

4. Four coats of metal paint. Doesn't seem to matter what it is, just so long as you use a lot of coats.

5. Smear grease over everything.

 

It seems like each of those things helps, but the combination of all of them makes for decent protection. I'm going to renew the grease in the wheel arches every year and see how that goes. I decided to do that instead of underseal because there is no risk of the grease flaking off, trapping moisture and making the problem worse. It's also cheap and widely available.

 

Electrolysis works wonders on those ARB brackets. Should be able to even read the numbers in there when you're done! I was going to do the knuckles as you have, but they weren't that bad and I couldn't seperate them from the shocks with the equipment I have. They got a quick paint but I don't expect it to last.

 

 

 

thanks for the tips. I'm not keen on using any kind of grinding as I believe rust is in an uneven surface (of good metal) so you'd need to grind away lots to reach the troughs if you know what I mean. That's why I think chemical dipping or electrolysis is the bomb.

 

NB did you mean ARB brackets (or caliper brackets)? I'm not expecting to find numbers on the ARB ones lol but did find quite a few markings on the rear arms

 

 

AxFsMVP.jpg

not sure what these circles on radius arms mean

 

OMQtViw.jpg

or these numbers on the other ends (1/42?;43/1; 45/2) 



#465 ffoy

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Posted 13 December 2020 - 11:54 PM

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Just popping in to say I am persevering with this but a combination of rubbish pictures and being interrupted by having to earn money has slowed things down.

 

I've decided that epoxy mastic is utter crap but will persevere in using it on all the suspension bits to prove this to myself.

 

I'm not using it on the suspension spring(s) as brushing them would be tricky so I've dug out my 'quality epoxy primer. It's a Glasurit product and is for spraying so I have decided to go over the mastic with it to see if perhaps the combo works better than just the mastic on its Todd. This kinda defeats my aim to prove that the mastic is crap but I'll mb leave one bit just mastic to see if it rusts-up quicker than the rest.

 

I've also been trying to spray 2K paint for years now and got all the gear (air-fed mask etc) so also took the plunge and bought 1-stage black 2K (they call it direct gloss as you don't need clear over top) so the parts which have had the Glasurit EP on them will also be getting that.

 

I finally got my O/S/R hub and knuckle apart so that will prob be last part to get de-rusted (the knuckle) and the subframe is now done. Took it out the tank this evening and dried it off then wire-brushed all the debris off it.

 

Here are a few random recent pics

 

vdg8k97.jpg

rear subframe bits in epoxy mastic 

 

 

MfYLlzv.jpg

CYWh50h.jpg

part numbers etc appearing out of the rust 

 

 

fmcm7Uu.jpg

some parts getting Glasurit EP (epoxy primer)  

 

 

a4VrFd8.jpg

fuel tank filler-neck had very thin paint originally 

 

 

7SyEMcs.jpg

fuel tank filler-neck picked clean by electrolysis 


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#466 ffoy

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Posted 20 December 2020 - 12:29 AM

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Not much of an update but just to say/show I'm still plugging-away at it.

 

Part of the reason I'm so dispirited about the epoxy-mastic is finding the state of the towbar c/w brackets that had this treatment before. The brackets were in an horrific mess. The towbar not so bad but even after electrolysis I'm not quite sure what's going on with that. It seems to still be covered in mastic but looked rusty  :unsure:

 

Anyway they've been stripped again and will be getting re-done but this time with the (grey) Glasurit over the mastic and some black 2K gloss.

 

Main point of this post was that the subframe is no coated. A job I never thought I'd do. I don't have pics of it after rust-stripping but, like the control arms, the pitting was severe. I reckon if one could hold rust at bay on these you could do it on anything. Time will tell...

 

NB I am doing the front suspension parts from my 1974 XJ12 (Daimler version) at same time and it's interesting to see how little corrosion there is on these parts.

 

ffUjL65.jpg

N/S/R knuckle prior to rust-removal 

 

uN8Rv15.jpg

towbar and brackets need done again 

 

 

5c9Wvt8.jpg

mastic last time offered zero protection

 

 

bXjzuRj.jpg

seems to be slightly better on towbar 

 

 

FvXRRSr.jpg

subframe being dried after removing from electrolysis tub 

 

 

qzvGIKH.jpg

subframe with one coat epoxy-mastic 

 

 

rlW1azi.jpg

N/S/R knuckle (and Jaguar part) in mastic


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#467 twincarbs

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Posted 22 December 2020 - 08:47 AM

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NB I am doing the front suspension parts from my 1974 XJ12 (Daimler version) at same time and it's interesting to see how little corrosion there is on these parts.


Wow, I used to love these (or any version of the XJ6/XJ12) when I was a kid. I can clearly remember peering through the driver's window of one, trying to see what the speedo went up to. When the XJS came out, I wasn't keen on the styling at all and wanted the XJ6/12 to be faster. According to my Top Trumps Sports Cars, the XJS was faster. I suppose I must have been about 9 years old. Our family car at that time was an Austin 1100.


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Sometimes I wake up grumpy. Sometimes I let her sleep in.


#468 ffoy

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Posted 25 December 2020 - 03:12 AM

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just a quick post to show the subframe and some other bits now have the epoxy primer on them.

 

hopefully next time I post I will have sprayed my first-ever 2K. I've got all the safety-gear I need to get going but short of one specific adapter for the compressor. It's ordered and should arrive between Christmas and New Year I reckon.

 

 

ja22K0v.jpg

UoWrYp3.jpg

subframe has now got Glasurit EP over the epoxy mastic 

 

 

l74ZJTW.jpg

some other bits n pieces done


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#469 Communist

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Posted 29 December 2020 - 11:15 PM

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I recognise that arm! Just after tidying up the rear end on my Mondeo, did the same thing on my XJS V12. A Series 2 XJ must be pretty cool.

Didn't do so much at the front, mostly just painted it in situ. It wasn't too bad really. The rear got completely dropped because of a suspected brake issue (that turned out to not be brake related), but everything got a good clean or replaced before it went back. New inboard discs, pads, caliper pistons, a couple of other bits, grease and lots of paint!

Edited by Communist, 29 December 2020 - 11:21 PM.

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#470 ffoy

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Posted 16 January 2021 - 02:17 AM

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I recognise that arm! Just after tidying up the rear end on my Mondeo, did the same thing on my XJS V12. A Series 2 XJ must be pretty cool.

Didn't do so much at the front, mostly just painted it in situ. It wasn't too bad really. The rear got completely dropped because of a suspected brake issue (that turned out to not be brake related), but everything got a good clean or replaced before it went back. New inboard discs, pads, caliper pistons, a couple of other bits, grease and lots of paint!

 

Hey. Sorry for not replying earlier but that's weird we both own Mondeo and V12 Jag  ^_^

 

 

How's your rear-end work holding up? Mine has been on hold for a bit due to the miserable weather  -_- . There was actually water streaming down all surfaces in my barn the other day. Would make you sick. Can't paint wet metal.

 

Anyway, on the plus side I got new brake-shield for the Mondeo today. It's a pattern part and I only bought 1 as I have a very good 2nd hand one. 

 

Any even better - after 3 years of trying - I have succeeded in getting seized/snapped studs out of my V12 block! Am sure the saga has been mentioned on this thread  :rolleyes:

 

xa2tSSr.jpg

pattern part. £20 inc P&P (Ebay)  

 

 

SBFdaTD.jpg

T4Zj9Jo.jpg

looks same as original 

 

 

8aKsRun.jpg

been trying to get 5 of these out for 3 years now 

 

 

hsdtovR.jpg

2 down. 3 to go


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