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£150 Mistral - operation MoT


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443 replies to this topic

#411 mondy zetecs

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Posted 12 February 2020 - 08:56 AM

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If it's same sensor as this £30 for Ford one, if I remember indicator on wiper turns different colour after time but if no streaks wouldn't bother changing, I use cheap aerowipers now £7.56527e1ed0331aec0ec30a7153e2139d08.jpg

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#412 mondy zetecs

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Posted 12 February 2020 - 08:58 AM

https://www.ebay.co....872.m2749.l2649


Edited by mondy zetecs, 12 February 2020 - 09:26 AM.

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#413 ffoy

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Posted 18 February 2020 - 06:09 PM

Well that's the car failed MOT, which means end of this thread as I won't be trying to get it thru again.

 

It failed on some predictable stuff (brakes, a bulb etc) but, very disappointingly, also failed on emissions (CO) so it's time to throw in the towel.

 

I'm done  :blush:



#414 nicam49

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Posted 19 February 2020 - 09:44 AM

Well that's the car failed MOT, which means end of this thread as I won't be trying to get it thru again.

It failed on some predictable stuff (brakes, a bulb etc) but, very disappointingly, also failed on emissions (CO) so it's time to throw in the towel.

I'm done :blush:

Bummer.. Just how bad were the emissions?... Is it worth trying an additive?
<p><p>nicam49 2002 Mondeo TDCi Ghia X Estate mk3 pre facelift Stardust Silver+Rust.[b] 308,000+miles, but been off the road since Nov 2019 after timing chain slipped during fuel pump transplant. Awaiting return of mojo

#415 twincarbs

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Posted 19 February 2020 - 10:03 AM

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No, don't give up now!


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#416 ffoy

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Posted 31 March 2020 - 08:10 PM

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Hi guys. Like an insane person I'm starting to think about having another go at the Mistral...

 

How insane? Well I now have a 53 plate 2.0 Ghia X saloon. It's in much better nick, running great, much better MPG and I always wanted a saloon as they look better and I can get into my boot with ladders on car.

 

So why bother with the Mistral? Well am still licking my wounds about it failing on emissions after all I went thru over the winter but the new car is too good to be used as a workhorse so it would be great to use the Mistral for work and have a nice clean tidy car for the odd days that I'm not working.

 

Would also give me a valuable lifeline when MOT times comes around (all too quickly).

 

Am thinking mb try new EGR valve and put an original O2 sensor in the CAT as the one in it isn't a Ford part so could perhaps be giving wrong reading.   


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#417 ffoy

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Posted 20 April 2020 - 07:46 PM

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It all seems like a bad memory now that I have my 2.0 Ghia X saloon but the old Mistral is still sitting outside my barn to remind me.
 
So the other day (in not great weather) I started attacking the O/S/R strut to see what needs doing with brakes etc and got as far as getting one caliper-to-hub bolt out. These things are murder to get at when corroded. Gave up on 2nd one as nothing would grip it.
 
GBWXhWL.jpg
12mm heads on caliper bolts don't give a lot to grip on when worn
 
Anyway today I found my self at the barn early and it was a sunny day (cold wind tho) and I had another go. Every single fastener on this strut is rusted to f**k but I eventually got it off. All the time thinking 'if something snaps in the body I can just scrap it'. Still to find a way to get the other caliper bolt out and the knuckle-to-strut pinch-bolt will be a nightmare but when the weather is good things don't seem so pointless.
 
17Af6Rb.jpg
pinch-bolt will not yield I fear
 
I was working on the shaded side of the car tho and after a few hours the wind funneling down the side of car whilst I wrestled the strut out was really ticking me off. As Wayne Carrini might say.
 
When the heads of bolts are really worn & crusty it's hard to tell what size they are. The ones that hold the rear arms (from the subrame) to the knuckles are probably 15mm but a 15mm socket wouldn't touch them so I hammered on a (Snap On) 14mm  socket and split it. After that where do you go? Well I decided to cut the flange off the bolt-head so I could get a socket further down the 'shaft' and that worked. 
 
 
HOUDywo.jpg
rear-arm to knuckle bolt (back one) flanges cut off head to get better purchase
 
 
DggaZou.jpg
it worked 
 
 
It wasn't as easy the get access on the front one so I hammered a 13mm socket on that and out it came.
 
So are these things 15mm, 14mm or 13mm?!
 
EQTztSh.jpg
rear-arm to knuckle bolt (front one) came off with 13mm socket hammered on 
 
The bolt which hols the trailing arm to the bottom of the knuckle has an 18mm head and this came out no probs.
 
Surprisingly so did the nut on the top anti-roll bar ball-joint after some vigorous wire-brushing and ATF drizzled on it. I only undid this improve access to the caliper bolts as my original intention was just to get the brakes off but when this failed it was time to remove the strut and that was a job already done.
 
FglV1jz.jpg
drop-link top nut undone despite heavy rust 
 
SxaH3DD.jpg
bottom one not disturbed yet
 
The last two fasteners to come out were the 10mm headed screws holding the strut-mount to the body. These are hidden high up in the turret and there is no way to get anything, other than an socket on an extension, to them so when one of them rounded I thought that was it finally over. What was next? cutting the bodywork to get a grinder in or possibly mole-grips on the threaded section protruding into the car. Am sure way back in this thread I have pics of that area but today there was no way I was taking the parcel-shelf supports and carpets out to investigate.
 
I tried hammering a 9mm socket on but that wasn't happening so out of desperation I rummaged thru my Imperial sockets to see if anything might jam on. It seemed I needed a 3/8 socket but didn't have one so ended up foraging in the Gaffer's rusting damp shipping container climbing over rusty bikes and discarded household items to reach a buckled tool-cabinet with a few cheapo tools in it and there I found a 1/4" drive 3/8 single-hex socket made in Taiwan. 
 
Could this save the day? Well I couldn't find a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter anywhere and none of the 1/4" drive things I had would reach into the turret so it wasn't looking good but with a combination of hex-bits and sockets I got it on the end of a long 3/8" drive wobble-bar and tapped it on. Turned it and everything went loose. Time for scrappy? Well hold on a minute the socket was stuck firm on the head of the bolt so might still be some hope.
 
I then found with a 1/4" extension and tiny breaker bar hanging straight down I could put a screwdriver thru the handle and hey presto it moved.
 
eBo4Sur.jpg
3/8" 1/4" drive Taiwan socket saves the day on strut top-mount to body screws 
 
rPmFEqz.jpg
1/4" drive 'breaker bar' with T-handle functionality did the job
 
Not long afterwards the strut was hanging from the brake hose which I don't want to disconnect from the brake pipe as despite being new copper pipes they have steel unions which rust away to nothing so can never be disturbed again.
 
The idea was to unwind the strut from the hose. Never going to f**king work with a jack under the car! but then I realised I could remove the floating part of the caliper from the carrier .
 
So it's all off and next time I'll get the oxy-acetylene on the pinch bolt and strip it all down.
 
Actually I'm sure this is the only strut on the car that has never been off in my ownership. The car failed MOT on both rear shocks iirc. One of the pads had welded itself to the disc since I parked the car up (despite handbrake being off) and I can see that the disc seems to have plenty meat on it and one pad is very thick whilst the other is non-existent so there's probably been issues for some time.
 
dBmIP88.jpg
why have I got a fat disc + 1 fat pad and one non-exsistent pad?
 
The loose plan here is to put new (pattern) shocks and springs on both sides and overhaul the calipers. If that goes to plan I'll move onto the front and do same


Edited by ffoy, 20 April 2020 - 07:57 PM.

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#418 Mondygeek

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Posted 21 April 2020 - 12:08 AM

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Looks like the sliders on the caliper carrier have been sticking for some time looking the wear on those pads.
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#419 ffoy

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Posted 29 April 2020 - 08:10 PM

Hi Mondygeek. You were right about the slider(s).

 

I stripped down the strut today and one is frozen solid. 

 

Anyway I just came in to post about the pinch-bolt mainly and also to show a used strut I got for £24.98 - delivered. It was £15.99 + £8.99 P&P but the guy brought it to me as he was in the area but lives in England. Not sure how that works with the P&P lol but I wasn't going to quibble. At least I got it quick and also he seemed to end the listing as soon as I bid as am sure it had 8 days to run and next day I got invoice for it. 

 

But yeah. I don't even know exactly what I'm doing here. Spring has broken on the 2.0 so do I stick this useable strut on that or buy bran-new parts for the 2.0 and put best used bits on the Mistral. I don't know tbh.

 

I found myself not working today and couldn't do much as the guy told me he'd drop the strut off in the afternoon at my flat despite the original address being to the barn, where I was working on the old strut, but I'd told him about the flat address as I didn't know if I'd be at the barn but he preferred the flat as it was more on his route (M77 to New Stephenson).

 

So I broke out the oxy-acetylene and roasted the area around the pinch-bolt and remaining caliper bolt. Dousing with ATF as I went. It's hard to tell when the parts are hot enough but they def weren't going cherry-red or orange. More a sort of white on the edges like you'd get on a bit of burnt wood.

 

I also hammered a 13mm socket onto the bolt as the 14mm didn't seem very tight. An 'expert' on the Facebook page tell me they are 15mm but am not convinced. I don't think you could hammer a 13mm onto a 15mm head even if it was worn. Simple way to check will be to measure the new one I have.

 

The bolt wound out pretty easily but has definitely got a bend in it! I took a video but not sure if they can be put on here so mb need to make it a YouTube link.

 

Despite also heating the caliper bolt I couldn't get any grip on it with a 12mm socket and an 11mm or 7/16AF or 15/32AF wouldn't go on either so I had to resort to cutting its head off then jiggling the carrier off the knuckle and finally winding the remains off bolt out the carrier with grips, No extra heat was needed.

 

The hub screws came out fine (it was replaced some time ago and still feels good)  but I've not managed to separate the hub from knuckle yet. Have left that to side with ATF drizzled over the interface.  

 

The spring looks pretty corroded so I don't think it's wise to re-use it and the shock is apparently knackered so I may only end up re-using the knuckle and hub from here

 

NdvQPFT.jpg

wvOhoLn.jpg

knuckle and its thread after heating with torch to remove pinch-bolt 

 

kQw0C83.jpg

original pinch-bolt 

 

 

VYZCgBd.jpg

removing head from caliper-carrier bolt 

 

 

RlgS5jO.jpg

head removed 

 

rX2c1XH.jpg

remains of bolt after carrier jiggled away strut 

 

 

tsdIMEq.jpg

came out with grips no problem

 

ZVD4Jce.jpg

used strut for approx £25

 

 

L6Y1TQw.jpg

green green red on spring is correct for 1.8/2.0 petrol model afaik 

 

 

YFb7Cki.jpg

orange square on shock seems familiar too



#420 mondy zetecs

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Posted 30 April 2020 - 02:13 PM

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Coil spring ,Green/green/red 783/803.4kg shows as 2000 to 2001

so its a early spring 


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