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£150 Mistral - operation MoT


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#21 ffoy

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 12:42 PM

Well. That's the front wheel bearing in and I am in the middle of doing the brake pipes after buying an excellent little tool called the Flaremaster 2 (Sykes Pickavant). I'm off to finish the pipes just now so not got time to update the thread with all the pics but there is one thing I'm worrying about.....

 

The bearings have a magnetic sensor in them for the ABS. It's not clear from looking at them which side has this so I copied the way the old bearing went in and the convention for bearings - ie writing facing you when it is in situ.

 

I had a look at the Haynes manual later  :kaffeetrinker_2:  and it advises

 

"Caution: The bearing must be fitted with the ABS wheel speed sensor ring, coloured black, towards the wheel speed sensor end of the knuckle...."

 

My Moog bearing didn't have any obvious black ring on it but the rubber seal at the writing end is black and this is the part I fitted facing out. ie not in at the wheel sensor. The part I fitted at the wheel sensor side has a metal plate , instead of a seal, and no writing. It's going to be a major pain to remove and destroy the bearing if it's in the wrong way  :dang:

 

 

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have I put bearing in wrong way round? no black ring per Haynes manual 

 

 

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should this end have went towards sensor?

 

 

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making up new pipes with the Flaremaster 2 



#22 mondy zetecs

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 01:16 PM

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I found the sensor ring was the magnetic side on the bearing and used a needle/pin to identify it.

The black ring on the picture looks like the abs sensor side .aarrgh!

Hopefully someone correct me if i am wrong.


Edited by Mondy zetecs, 16 June 2015 - 01:32 PM.

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#23 ffoy

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Posted 17 June 2015 - 12:46 AM

I'm 99.99999% sure it's in wrong. Just after posting I Googled about it and everything pointed to the black ring above being the magnet side. I actually remember when I refitted the strut that little particles of rust scale were being attracted to it. Just behind the brake-disc hub.

 

I'll leave it in till it fails the MoT and if there's not a lot of other things wrong will go through the whole process again. Otherwise I'll cut my losses and scrap it  :sick:



#24 ffoy

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 04:50 PM

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So, going back to where I was before the reversed wheel bearing issue struck me, I was re-fitting the N/S/F strut and embarking on making up brake pipes.

 

Well the tool I bought is great. It's the mid-price option for a brake pipe flaring tool. You can get very cheap ones which don't produce great results afaik and a dearer type which mount in a vice and have a sort of lever/punch action on them.

 

After much deliberation I went for this at £99.99 and I can't see why you'd need the dearer one. You can produce the flares in less than a minute with no effort. It takes much longer to prepare the ends of the pipes neatly than it does to make the flare and you'd need to do this regardless of which flaring tool you use.

 

The first pipe I made up was the NSF which is a nice short one to start with. This is the only one which goes directly to the ABS unit and was pretty much stuck in there. The end at the hose which gets all the muck etc thrown at it was less damaged in removal susprisingly.

 

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1st pipe to be replicated is NSF. only tool required with the Flaremaster 2 is a 16mm spanner to tighten nut on die-clamp 

 

 

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ABS-unit end of NSF pipe badly rounded attempting to undo it

 

 

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rusty end came off much easier

 

 

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comparing male fittings supplied with new pipe against original. "same same but different" as they say in Thailand

 

 

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new DIN single flare formed with Flaremaster 2 looks ok with new fitting. time will tell if seal is good

 

 

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pipe shaped up by hand against original

 

 

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and fitted to ABS unit

 

 

I then moved onto the OSF which was bent out of shape dragging it out from where is sits along the bulkhead. The end which goes in the wheelarch with a few right angle bends in it was ok. I copied the new one from it despite knowing one end was out of shape but as it was a relatively straight bit I could sort that out when fitting it.

 

 

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original OSF pipe has gained some curves when being pulled out of engine bay...

 

 

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new pipe copied against it however and can correct shape when fitting it  

 

 

 

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bends can be accurately replicated by hand with a little care

 

 

 

That's the ten-pic limit reached which calls for a break in proceedings... 


Edited by ffoy, 20 June 2015 - 04:57 PM.

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#25 ffoy

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 05:20 PM

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when removing/fitting OSF pipe at wheel end access can be improved by removing plastic shield

 

 

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pipe comes from hose under this rail and clips in at end

 

 

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then disappears upwards

 

 

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towards then under brake-servo actuating bar/tube

 

 

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clips into top of bulkhead-mounted clips

 

 

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then meets short length of pipe which connects to ABS (presumably provided to make access easier)

 

 

So that was as far as I got with the brake pipes and it was time to re-fit the NSF strut c/w incorrectly-fitted bearing. Having previously changed the spring on the OSF strut I noticed something didn't look right with the top bearing on the NSF and ended up taking it off to investigate further. It's definitely damaged and looks to me like someone has had it off before and possibly fitted it incorrectly and/or lost some bearings from it. There are some deep gouges in it. The top mount has an arrow on it to tell you which way it goes on car but the Haynes advice 'The arrow and white line on the top mount must face the front of the car facing the front of the car' isn't too clear. Does is mean the arrow should be at the front (pointing left & right) or that the arrow should point towards the front (and rear)? I reckon the latter. The spring on this side is a KYB which is an aftermarket part afaik so I guess the bearing could have been damaged or put on incorrectly if the spring was changed at some point. You can actually see where the rubber mount has been on the car if you look up into the strut-housing as there will be a mark on the paint made by the rubber. This doesn't really help however if the thing has been disturbed and put back on incorrectly as there may then be two marks  :unsure:

 

 

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NSF top mount/bearing looks damaged

 

 

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and doesn't seem to be sitting correctly

 

 

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KYB spring suggest this is not original and may explain damage to top-mount


Edited by ffoy, 20 June 2015 - 05:33 PM.

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#26 mondy zetecs

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 05:44 PM

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You're suspicions are right.The arrow on the top mount should be Front to Rear next to the wing ,thats how i have it. 

But i've no idea why the bearing casing is damaged.Nice job with the brake pipes the pipes are neater than the ones i had fitted. 


Edited by Mondy zetecs, 20 June 2015 - 05:47 PM.

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#27 ffoy

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 05:48 PM

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thrust-bearing is missing some balls 

 

 

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and the bottom plate bears some scars

 

 

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top-mount in a bit of a mess

 

 

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may have been caused be incorrect fitment in past. there is a two-headed arrow moulded onto the rubber

 

 

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the imprint of which can be seen if you look up into the strut-housing on the body

 

 

I re-greased the bearings and re-assembled things and it does seem to be sitting correctly now but am thinking I should perhaps buy a new one. Or a used strut which might have a decent top-mount and bearing in it.

 

I got some Thule roofbars for £26 off Ebay and there was no P&P as they were local. Thought it was a good buy as any I previously bid on have went for nearer £60 and those that are cheap tend to be collection only as ppl can't be bothered wrapping them up due to the size.

 

 

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new (used) roofbars for £26 off Ebay

 

 

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came with fittings

 

 

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remove caps from rails

 

 

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mounting holes are filled with sealant 


Edited by ffoy, 20 June 2015 - 05:57 PM.


#28 ffoy

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 06:06 PM

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and can be exposed by digging a plug of sealant out

 

 

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screw the little studs in

 

 

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and find they don't sit centrally in the holes

 

 

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when you drop the collars on they sit on top of the rail rather than inside it but this is not because they are off-centre. the collars are slightly wider than the holes

 

 

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rubber feet have different numbers on them. 03

 

 

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04

 

 

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and also 1/2 & 2/2

 

 

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but metal feet all have same number 07 so assume same

 

 

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rubber feet are different heights at either end

 

 

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to accommodate curve of roof. will sit like this if you get them wrong


Edited by ffoy, 20 June 2015 - 06:09 PM.


#29 mondy zetecs

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 06:17 PM

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My roofbar holes were covered with thin cover of sealant i just poked them through, i would definitely fit a new top strut mount its about £17 to £30 and refit bottom bearing just incase the abs sensor lights up.


Edited by Mondy zetecs, 20 June 2015 - 06:20 PM.

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#30 Macmondy3L

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Posted 20 June 2015 - 06:18 PM

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Nice work with the copper brake pipes,much better quality than the standard items and no corrosion to bother you again,excellent upgrade!!
Again another good write up fella.
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