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Engine rattle when warm

rattle warm light acceleration engine noise

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17 replies to this topic

#11 Tarr7d218

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 09:44 AM

Hi,
Do you have any updates for your car engine rattle to pass on?

Thanks...Alan


Hey Alan, iv checked a few other forums out backed up by advice from squirt and checked with part numbers, fairly certain that the cure for my car is a software update, a service bulletin released in 2012 that re calibrates the injectors to stop over fuelling at low revs and increasing combustion noise/diesel knock
It has not been to ford garage since before the bulletin TSB 27/2012 was released so definately hasn't got the update

I hadn't replied yet as I have not been able to take it in. We are off to Cyprus in 12 days so will be after that I will post back if it helps.
Apparently it cures 95% of problems of the same symptoms with the correct vehicles and same injectors but sometimes the Injectors may need to be replaced - usually cos they knackered anyway

IN THE MEANTIME CHECK UR INJECTORS- on the body of the injector (the lighter silver barrel there should be a laser etched part number mine is something like 50013 or something the parts affected end in 3)

#12 alan8376

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 11:27 AM

Hi, Thanks for coming back with the TSB info.

 

Bye the way. As the engine fitted to yours is a 'Lynx' model.  On starting off from standing still. Do you find it can be a sod if revs aren't kept up initially?  Similarary, when allowing revs to drop off when eg. slowing down and going round a corner, that the engine struggles if the revs are allowed to drop too much?  Maybe it is the type of turbo fitted?

 

Thanks

Alan



#13 Tarr7d218

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 04:53 PM

Hi, Thanks for coming back with the TSB info.

Bye the way. As the engine fitted to yours is a 'Lynx' model. On starting off from standing still. Do you find it can be a sod if revs aren't kept up initially? Similarary, when allowing revs to drop off when eg. slowing down and going round a corner, that the engine struggles if the revs are allowed to drop too much? Maybe it is the type of turbo fitted?

Thanks
Alan

Hey, I know these engines have serious flatspots
I suppose if you let revs drop a bit too low then it'll feel really underpowered, especially in second and I'm assuming a lot of corners u may be in second? Until turbo kicks in there ain't much power hence keep ur turbo in good condition ;)
However I don't have much problems pulling away from standstill!
All I need to do is lift the clutch pedal and it pulls like a train even going up hill?!? Possibly a filter being choked or something? Ud have thought it would be underpowered all the time though if that's the case

#14 alan8376

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 06:22 PM

Thanks,

 

I have looked at TSB info you supplied. It appears to be USA oriented site???  I personally think the TSB mentioned is 2012 cars relevant and NOT 2008 cars. I heard a 2012 car taking off today. Sounded sh1t!

 

Have you a better UK site for info?

 

Thanks

Alan



#15 Tarr7d218

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 08:57 PM

Thanks,

I have looked at TSB info you supplied. It appears to be USA oriented site??? I personally think the TSB mentioned is 2012 cars relevant and NOT 2008 cars. I heard a 2012 car taking off today. Sounded sh1t!

Have you a better UK site for info?

Thanks
Alan

If u see this other forum squirt has better info
http://www.talkford....not-cold/page-3

I think the specific code TSB 27/2012 is possibly American
Ford uk still have the service bulletin with these engines during certain years.
Iv seen a few sites that mention of it but contain no specific details as apparently this may be conflicting with fords copyright and service standards. Maybe that's why it is so difficult to find a solution for this particular problem.
(Ford wanna take all the money for upgrades)
I will be going to get this done within 3-4 weeks after back from holiday so I will report if its actually had effect

#16 Tarr7d218

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Posted 17 May 2015 - 08:37 PM

SOLVED--- sorry about long post.
Hi, thought I'd report back on my findings as not many people do follow ups and leave it open for everyone to worry.
It seems as though my problem HAS been solved...
Just to confirm that this issue is caused by the 'bad batch' of injectors produced in 2008-2009, it has been listed before but the injectors were in the focus, mondeo and other models produced in those years and the injector serial numbers end in a 3 which can be seen on the barrel.
there IS a tsb released but most garages won't apply or don't know about it as it's not common ground.... Although the recalibration can ease symptoms the fact that the injectors are pretty much faulty can't be solved by a simple update, so the bad news... the injectors inevitably will need replacing. However... You do NOT need to spend the £1500-£2000 that ford quote.
I have fixed my car for less than £200 was a bit of an experiment but ATLEAST I can confirm wot my problem and solution was. And here's how........
There are a couple of posts out there that suggest that these injectors do not need coding and this is definately true... There is many arguements to the contrary but these injectors DO NOT have seperate codes... Hence there is no reason why the injectors can't be replaced by yourself they are fairly easy to do but cleanliness and care is absolutely vital so do not attempt if you are not confident. So all that leaves is the cost of injectors.
The best way is to get a good set of remanufactured injectors usually about £150-£200 each so check on eBay! That's £600-£800 as opposed to £1500++
However as I was only experimenting I decided to buy a used set from a known working focus, BEWAREEE make sure the seller is reputable and they know what they are doing, the injectors need to be throughly clean and ideally the ends plugged or wrapped so no dirt ingress is allowed. My used set cost £160 plus you need brand new seals £6.
You need to make sure Ideally that you are not buying injectors from the same bad batch so look for a 2006/2007 preferably. They will be older but known to be working.
I found the injectors fairly easy to replace and I noticed the difference as soon as I started car, it now seems to start very easily and it struggled before, I was so nervous whilst the engine was warming up hoping that problems were solved and the rattles/vibrations/ misfiring Etc etc NEVER came! It drives superb! The tdci will never be a quiet motor but the problems I had before are gone!! I even seem to be getting 5-10mpg more. For the sake of £166? Bargain!

#17 radu.tudor

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Posted 24 September 2020 - 06:23 AM

SOLVED--- sorry about long post.
Hi, thought I'd report back on my findings as not many people do follow ups and leave it open for everyone to worry.
It seems as though my problem HAS been solved...
Just to confirm that this issue is caused by the 'bad batch' of injectors produced in 2008-2009, it has been listed before but the injectors were in the focus, mondeo and other models produced in those years and the injector serial numbers end in a 3 which can be seen on the barrel.
there IS a tsb released but most garages won't apply or don't know about it as it's not common ground.... Although the recalibration can ease symptoms the fact that the injectors are pretty much faulty can't be solved by a simple update, so the bad news... the injectors inevitably will need replacing. However... You do NOT need to spend the £1500-£2000 that ford quote.
I have fixed my car for less than £200 was a bit of an experiment but ATLEAST I can confirm wot my problem and solution was. And here's how........
There are a couple of posts out there that suggest that these injectors do not need coding and this is definately true... There is many arguements to the contrary but these injectors DO NOT have seperate codes... Hence there is no reason why the injectors can't be replaced by yourself they are fairly easy to do but cleanliness and care is absolutely vital so do not attempt if you are not confident. So all that leaves is the cost of injectors.
The best way is to get a good set of remanufactured injectors usually about £150-£200 each so check on eBay! That's £600-£800 as opposed to £1500++
However as I was only experimenting I decided to buy a used set from a known working focus, BEWAREEE make sure the seller is reputable and they know what they are doing, the injectors need to be throughly clean and ideally the ends plugged or wrapped so no dirt ingress is allowed. My used set cost £160 plus you need brand new seals £6.
You need to make sure Ideally that you are not buying injectors from the same bad batch so look for a 2006/2007 preferably. They will be older but known to be working.
I found the injectors fairly easy to replace and I noticed the difference as soon as I started car, it now seems to start very easily and it struggled before, I was so nervous whilst the engine was warming up hoping that problems were solved and the rattles/vibrations/ misfiring Etc etc NEVER came! It drives superb! The tdci will never be a quiet motor but the problems I had before are gone!! I even seem to be getting 5-10mpg more. For the sake of £166? Bargain!

 

 

This is the only post i've found so far that describes the exact problem i've been having, so thanks for the info, very helpful indeed. I just wanted to add to this post in case anyone has a similar problem, i've got a 2006 Ford Tourneo Connect, same engine (1.8 TDCI Lynx), with the exact same issues, so it seems that older gen injectors might have same problem. As said before, best bet is to get injectors from a specialized company, so you know they have been cleaned properly and tested. 

In any case, word of advice, from experience, check injectors first when this problem appears and don't go straight for the injector pump, which will cost a lot more. 



#18 zhivko1019

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Posted 05 March 2021 - 03:27 AM

Hi mate!

 

I have exactly the same problem and it's been ongoing for months now, ever since I bought the car.

I am now looking into replacing my injectors but I am having the problem of not being able to identify if my injectors are from the faulty batch.

 

I know that there should be this serial number on the injector's barrel - 050013, which is the number of the faulty batch. However mines are not to be seen and I can only refer to the number on the top of the injector which is 4M5Q-9F593-AD.

 

How can I tell if I'm having the faulty injectors otherwise, and how to tell what injectors to buy? 







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