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St220 Powered Mk1 Ghia


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#21 refriedgenes

refriedgenes

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 08:23 PM

*
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Cheers for the encouragement chaps. It's nice to know someone understands. The usual reaction I get when I mention it to other people, (aside from glazed eyes) is "an old Mondeo? Why? They're not even worth that much..." Right before they go back to discussing the behavioural intricacies of an apparently famous person who's elected to make themselves more famous by locking themselves in a closed room. And then my eyes glaze over. But enough of my opinions on Big Brother.

The basic thing that drives it is the idea of power to weight ratios. According to Haynes and Parkers (other sources are available),
Mk1 Saloon V6 is approx 1370kgs with 170bhp 220Nm = 124bhp/tonne 160Nm/tonne
ST220 is approx 1530kgs with 220bhp 280Nm = 143bhp/tonne 183Nm/tonne
Assuming I can get it running somewhere close to the claimed output I should have somewhere in the region of 160bhp/tonne 204Nm/tonne.

So far, the project is kind of rough and ready, I just want to get it running (sort of) normally and then start to approach the details. It would look better closer to the ground, I'm also a fan of the proper RS body kit and if one turns up at the right price it's definitely on the cards but I want it to run smoother first. I'm by no means an engineer or a qualified mechanic and there's many things that tend to go over my head, but without wishing to appear controversial there also seems to be a lot of 'tuning' stuff that you can buy in the likes of Halfords and via the google machine that probably makes less difference than the weather does to the amount of air your engine can suck in.

There's a degree of self adaptability with the standard Ford management and this project is quite blatantly exploiting that (am I the only one that thinks my car is faster on some days than others?) Having driven it a few times now in anger, it would appear that it's about reached the limit of what the EECIV can do with 3 litres. It seems to go well after it thinks the secondaries have opened, which I imagine is a fueling issue, but below that, it struggles on light throttle. It bucks and surges as if it's got a misfire... Now there's a thought, plugs and leads might help... I think basically it wants a remap though, and I've got Racebits in W.Mids in my sights.

With regards to the fueling though, the emissions comparison with last year:

Fast Idle Test (2500-3000rpm)
2.5 3.0
CO 0.04% CO -0.005%
HC 19ppm HC 3ppm
Lamda 1.02 Lamda 1.014

Natural Idle Test
2.5 3.0
CO 0.01% CO 0.083%

Surely if I extrapolate that, then if it was a 3.1 it would actually be consuming hydrocarbons on a fast idle rather than producing them. Someone should tell Greenpeace about this monster! Joking aside though, the engine seems cleaner at fast idle. Perhaps it's running lean if the ECU thinks it's only fueling for 6 valves instead of 12 due to having no secondaries?

The tester actually said he couldn't figure out how it had passed when you consider this:
front header modified to fit Y pipe 2.JPG
:whistling:


First time I took it out, (after the smoking brakes event/disaster), I was quite disappointed as it drove like it was a 1.6. I spoke to a man about a dog who knew about cars who mentioned checking voltages - specifically that of the Throttle Position Sensor. I'd had to modify the throttle bracket as the only cable I had at my disposal had a different end on it and I didn't want to buy a new throttle cable when I'd got 2 in the garage - one of which could surely be made to work. According to info I could find, the TPS should be reading about 0.7v at idle and close to 5.0v at WOT. Mine was reading 2.7v at WOT. WHAT?! :darn:

Simply, the throttle was only opening halfway due to my previous bodge! I took it off and bent it about and rewelded it. After a few trials I'd finished, and the butterfly was opening fully and TPS readout was 4.7v. It looked like this
modded throttle bracket 3.JPG
Eventually, I might get the cruise control working again. It was too complicated at the time to integrate it into my new throttle bracket. A pet hate of mine is having buttons that don't work. I don't mind having no buttons, but those you do have should all work.

Whilst a Hansel & Gretel style trail of transmission fluid everywhere I go is one way of always finding my way home, it could involve some dangerous manoeuvres traveling the wrong way down the dual carriageway, and somehow I don't think plod would join that particular school of thought. I prefer maps anyway, so I ordered some gearbox seals for the trusty MTX75. They turned up while it was snowing and I was in the middle of 10 days off. The snow drove me inside but after 6 days I was going out of my mind, so I bit the bullet and jacked up the car. New seal in. Hopefully the concept of transmission fluid as a regular consumable is now a thing of the past with this baby.
driveshaft seal replaced.JPG
What made that easier was the fact that all the front suspension was put back together last time with lashings of copper slip. It makes life so much easier for 'next time'

Thanks for reading. :)

Edited by refriedgenes, 26 January 2013 - 08:25 PM.

  • Simonty likes this
96 24v Ghia
3.0 Manual conversion running but not perfect
Debadged dewoodtimmed
Si/Mk2 Zetec 16's - (still the prettiest IMHO)
Wait til i get the mk1 Escort finished.....

#22 refriedgenes

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 08:32 PM

Plan for the immediate future, I'm thinking a separate cold air feed to the airbox from next to the front fog light (keeping the fog lights for that proper Ghia symmetry) I reckon B&Q should have something I can hide away.

Also, the original FPR is apparently set to 2.1bar with the vacuum connected and 2.7bar with it disconnected. I gather from reading this site (and others) that the ST220 is looking for something in the region of 4.5bar. So an adjustable pressure regulator might help with fueling.

And a remap.

I'm hungry.
96 24v Ghia
3.0 Manual conversion running but not perfect
Debadged dewoodtimmed
Si/Mk2 Zetec 16's - (still the prettiest IMHO)
Wait til i get the mk1 Escort finished.....

#23 Simonty

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 08:37 PM

I just sold a Powerboost Valve on Ebay for £1.24 lol. An inexpensive option to say the least!!!

Old: 1997 Mk2 Si 2.0, 1996 Mk1 Ghia V6, 2002 Mk3 Zetec-S 2.5 V6, 2003 Mk3 Ghia X TDCI
Now: Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo with mods!


#24 refriedgenes

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 08:43 PM

That's a shame, I'd've doubled the offer! :biggrin:

I don't know if i'll actually make any difference, but surely if the injectors are expecting 4.5bar and they're only getting half that, something isn't quite right somewhere. Any experience of adjustable ones?
96 24v Ghia
3.0 Manual conversion running but not perfect
Debadged dewoodtimmed
Si/Mk2 Zetec 16's - (still the prettiest IMHO)
Wait til i get the mk1 Escort finished.....

#25 Simonty

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 10:07 PM

I never actually fitted it, just picked it up for a tenner when buying an exhaust part off someone who totalled his previously-quick ST24. If the pressure is lower then surely the injector flow rate is subsequently lower by a roughly proportionate amount. This makes driving the car potentially a little risky I would think, as it must be mega lean. Light throttle conditions will tend to run with a leaner mix - perhaps why yours stumbles/stutters. On full throttle the mix is enrichened (for engine safety I think).

Edited by Simonty, 26 January 2013 - 10:08 PM.

Old: 1997 Mk2 Si 2.0, 1996 Mk1 Ghia V6, 2002 Mk3 Zetec-S 2.5 V6, 2003 Mk3 Ghia X TDCI
Now: Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo with mods!


#26 refriedgenes

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 10:21 PM

I think you're right. This is the kind of logic I'm using and I don't really want to kill the engine for want of saving 50 quid. I think there's plenty available, I just need to make sure the pressure will adjust high enough for my purpose. I think some only go to about 3 bar, which unless somebody tells me different, that's not enough for what the ST220 was designed for.
Power boost valves aren't normally the sort of thing I'd bother with on a standard car, as the way I see it, Ford aren't likely to design a car that's going to lunch itself, it wouldn't be good business, but on this occasion, it kind of makes sense.

Edited by refriedgenes, 26 January 2013 - 10:25 PM.

96 24v Ghia
3.0 Manual conversion running but not perfect
Debadged dewoodtimmed
Si/Mk2 Zetec 16's - (still the prettiest IMHO)
Wait til i get the mk1 Escort finished.....

#27 Simonty

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 10:28 PM

But there'll be headroom in the injector duty-cycle that can be used to rectify the situation with proper mapping :-)

After all, cars like my old V6 have made well over 200bhp from injectors that powered a 167bhp motor (with stock FPR).

If the ST220 injectors can deliver plenty of fuel at 4.5 bar then at 3 bar you'd just need a 150% increase in duty cycle... (done by mapping) please someone tell me if I'm oversimplifying this.

Old: 1997 Mk2 Si 2.0, 1996 Mk1 Ghia V6, 2002 Mk3 Zetec-S 2.5 V6, 2003 Mk3 Ghia X TDCI
Now: Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo with mods!


#28 refriedgenes

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 10:42 PM

That makes sense to me, and I do want mine mapped. However, it's nigh on 160 miles down the motorway to get to Racebits - and there's very little in the way of rolling roads round here. It's the journey TO the mapping that concerns me. Like you say, if the 220 injectors are happy running at 4.5 bar, then they maybe need an increase in duty just so they're not 'hungry' with only 3 bar. I would have thought 160 miles is quite a long journey running that lean.

I'm thinking that fitting a FPR at least until I can get it to a mapping *might* help preserve the engine

Edited by refriedgenes, 26 January 2013 - 10:44 PM.

96 24v Ghia
3.0 Manual conversion running but not perfect
Debadged dewoodtimmed
Si/Mk2 Zetec 16's - (still the prettiest IMHO)
Wait til i get the mk1 Escort finished.....

#29 Simonty

Simonty

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 10:44 PM

I hear you - really my knowledge is superficial so with that caveat... - I would consider whacking on an FSE Powerboost or similar device (with fuel pressure gauge), crank up the adjustment till you're happy (maybe seeing a little smoke lol, and defo seeing much higher fuel pressure) and then embark on that journey feeling a little less likely to melt the engine.

Old: 1997 Mk2 Si 2.0, 1996 Mk1 Ghia V6, 2002 Mk3 Zetec-S 2.5 V6, 2003 Mk3 Ghia X TDCI
Now: Saab 9-3 2.0 turbo with mods!


#30 refriedgenes

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Posted 26 January 2013 - 10:57 PM

As a temporary/suck it and see solution it kind of fits in with the whole rough and ready approach to this project. I don't doubt what you're saying about the injectors being perfectly able to cope with an increase of 150%, I think a lot of OE stuff is generally designed for longevity and reliability and so over engineered to a certain extent. - my concern is more with how they cope with an equivalent decrease in fueling.

I'm going to buy one. :L I can always ebay it later on...
96 24v Ghia
3.0 Manual conversion running but not perfect
Debadged dewoodtimmed
Si/Mk2 Zetec 16's - (still the prettiest IMHO)
Wait til i get the mk1 Escort finished.....




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