Fitting Oem Xenons + Hl Washers - Lighting (Mk3 Mondeo) - TalkFord.com

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Fitting Oem Xenons + Hl Washers


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#1 seantdi

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 03:30 PM

hi folks. hav a set of xenons and headlight washers ordered!! just a few questions,
1) is there a guide to fitting the headlight washers anywhere?
2) looking at the wiki on fitting the xenons it says you need 2 damaged headlights to make up the loom, dose it have to a left and right light or are the plugs the same on both lights??
3) any tips or advice on fitting them?

thanks in advance
sean
Mondeo ghia tdci in panther black,
Cream leather, oem xenons, headlight washers, pioneer avic f7010bt, reverse camera, full led interior lights.
To come: heated seats, aero flat wipers, colour coded bumper strips and valances, DRLS

#2 Yorky

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 04:39 PM

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1) The headlight washers are pretty easy to fix. You will need the blue relay that fits under the main relays in the glove compartment though. Also, it's better to have the larger washer bottle (although you could get away with the original, you'll just run out of water faster). Of course, you need the headlight washer jets, piping and headlight washer pump and filter.

Put on your handbrake and jack up the front end, and support the car with stands. Remove the wheels, and then undue the 3 screws near the bumper that hold in the wheel arch lining on both sides,and then remove the front undertray. Disconnect any fog lights and air temperature sensors at the front, then undue the bolts holding the bumper to the wheel arch (2 bolts either side on mine, but some models have 3). You should then be able to lift the bumper up at the away from from the lugs near the headlights.

Swap the washer bottle over - the connector for the headlight pump is tucked up under the off-side headlight. When I fitted my washers the connector was different to the pump, but it's only 2 wires so I just ran them to the pump. If you don't have a new washer bottle you can cut holes for the pump and fit the filter. You may need to do this for the low water level sensor, if you have one. Connect the pipes to the motor, and fasten the washer jets to the front end of the car using the pre-cut holes. The hardest part is to cut 2 holes on the bumper - there are markings where you need to cut. I cut smaller than the markings indicated, and then gradually enlarged the holes using a file after testing to see if the washer jets moved freely. That way I was sure I was not going to make the holes too large. The washer jet covers will need spraying to your car's colour if they do not match, and just snap (carefully) onto the washer jets. They are a fair bit larger than the holes you cut, so you should not have any worries about holes in your bumper being seen. Fit the washer covers last, after the bumper etc. is back.

2) They are both the same, so you can use any 2 plugs. You don't actually need them, but it sure makes life easier if you wish to swap your halogens back, and I would recommend getting them. A scapyard will invariable have damaged lights, which they can't sell. I got 2 for £5. At the same time pick up some relays and spare fuses.

3) I was going to do a proper write up about my experiences, but for now my advice is:
a) Make your looms ready before you fit the Xenons. That way you won't rush things, and make errors. Take your time and do it right - use the right connectors (unless you can solder) and make sure you weather proof you loom (but do this last, after you've tested everything works!). I buy most of my stuff from here http://www.vehicle-w...me/homepage.php. You'll need 2mm thinwall cable, and inline fuse holder (I used the splash-proof holder) and a 20A fuse (not he micro type unless you buy a micro fuse holder, so grab some normal 20A fuses at the scappy), a ring connector for the battery, some insulated female blades for the 2 relays (you may need larger ones if you're using a Ford relay from the scrapyard), and a selection of butt connectors. I also used spiral binding for the live connector to the battery, as it will protect from chafing, and cloth tape to insulate the looms.

B) The wiring diagrams and Wiki was a bit intimidating for me, but it all does make sense. I did a spreadsheet to try and ensure I'd got things right - attached. It's only rough, not had time to tidying it up for publishing. Should make sense I hope.

c) Make sure you use 2mm wiring (or something that can handle 20A) to run the live feed from the battery to both relays.

d) You don't need to drill into your headlights to get the leveller motors to work using your manual signal from your light switch. I ended up swapping the motors from the Halogens I had bought to the Xenon, but I'm not sure if I needed to in the end. I think the Xenon motors may have worked fine. What you can do is make sure that you run the halogen leveller live feed wire (it comes out of the centre connector in the halogen loom, pin 4, and is purple/yellow if I remember) to pin 5 of the Xenon plug. That's your live feed to the motor sorted. Now run the blue wires to a spare pin in each Xenon (there are lots of spare pins and wires for the auto-levelling feature) to transmit your manual levelling signal. Work out the colour of the wire from the pin you have used to the main halogen loom. This wire will, of course, be connected to the ballast. Cut this and also the signal wire from the ballast to the levelling motor (you can't use the ballasts to provide levelling signals, as they are not getting data from the axle sensors). Then connect the first wire you cut to the signal wire of the levelling motor. In effect all you've done then is run the blue wire through the loom, using a spare xenon signal wire, and cut the original signal wire from the ballasts. Hope this makes sense.

e) All being well your lights should connect up and work. TEST them first BEFORE you insulate, to make sure all your connections are solid and things work as they should.

f) When connecting to the relays, I used the existing halogen low beam to pin 86, and then cut 1 earth lead from the halogen loom and the earth from pin 7 Xenon loom to pin 85 of the relay. I think I had 3 earth wires still spare from the halogen loom (one was for the leveller motor). I connected all 3 to pin 11's black earth wire, figuring that 3 would be enough to take any current. Of course, your live feed from the battery needs to go to pin 87, and your Xenon 12v feed from pin 14 will make the final connection to the relay (pin 30).

g) Insulate and tidy up your wiring, make sure it's weatherproof and won't chaf.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Xenon wiring.jpg

  • seantdi likes this
2007 Mondeo Mk3 2.0 Ghia, modded with - power fold mirrors with remote key fob lock/unlock, OEM Xenon headlights, OEM headlight washers, Philips LED DRL side lights (these come on with the ignition), interior boot release (not fitted on later models for some bizarre reason known only to Ford), front chrome strip, black grilles, boot lip protector, Powerflex rear subframe bushes, fitted Xantia rear blind, flat aero wipers.

#3 seantdi

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 05:01 PM

wow very helpfull mate!!! im handy enough with the wiring and have most of the stuff, wire stippers, terminals etc.

the blue relay for the headlight washers, is it a ford only part? im not sure if it will be included in the sale but i know the larger bottle is. he said he had a loom that he took from the old car so im not exactly sure what will come with them. maybe he will have the loom made up!! if not im sure i will be back with more questions!
Mondeo ghia tdci in panther black,
Cream leather, oem xenons, headlight washers, pioneer avic f7010bt, reverse camera, full led interior lights.
To come: heated seats, aero flat wipers, colour coded bumper strips and valances, DRLS

#4 Yorky

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Posted 10 September 2012 - 08:02 PM

If you don't get the blue relay ask for one here, I am sure someone will have one spare for a small fee. Yes, it is Ford.
2007 Mondeo Mk3 2.0 Ghia, modded with - power fold mirrors with remote key fob lock/unlock, OEM Xenon headlights, OEM headlight washers, Philips LED DRL side lights (these come on with the ignition), interior boot release (not fitted on later models for some bizarre reason known only to Ford), front chrome strip, black grilles, boot lip protector, Powerflex rear subframe bushes, fitted Xantia rear blind, flat aero wipers.




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