one tip i thought of, when removing bolts from manifold how about using a magnetized socket, saves the bolts dropping in awkward places.
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2.0 Inlet Flaps Removal
Posted 21 May 2017 - 07:35 PM
Yes I used to dip the bolt heads in grease which held them quite well until I got a magnetized socket. I took the fan out too to get more access to the manifold but once fitted I had to remove the accelerator cable support bracket etc to get enough clearance to get the fan back in, lucky eh. Had the manifolds off again recently prior to removing the cylinder head to replace the gasket. If you ever have to take the exhaust manifold off to do the head gasket take out the Torx headed bolts which hold the exhaust manifold as it gives more clearance to remove the cylinder head and refit it.
Posted 02 January 2018 - 05:06 PM
When I de flapped mine I noticed that my car a y reg ,earlier model with 13mm pcv hose did not have the yellow coloured shells ,instead they were black ,and there were no bearing runners to hold the steel shaft,so I presume someone had fiddled with it before I owned car.
I DE flapped the car with no issues to running,infact the throttle response has improved just have to press accelerator and car picks up,i think this is because air was mixing from the channels due to lack of bearing in between the intake flows,which I sealed up each hole,the shells I took out had holes elongated and were rattling around with the rod around 1cm back and forth,there was also damage to rod with cuts going at least over 1mm into it at 3 points so ready to snap.
After removing rod and flaps reinstalling shells to hold intake gaskets,there has been no change in mpg economy and no effect on mot as it passed,also no engine light issues either.
Edited by sks01773, 02 January 2018 - 05:07 PM.
Posted 27 May 2019 - 03:05 PM
Nice write-up on the flap removal!
I replaced the the whole manifold with the updated version on my previous (2002) Mondeo the flap article was based on, as at the time I did not know if de-flapping was OK.
I've just removed the flaps on my "new" (2007) one. They had very little wear for a car with 140,000 though it did not appear that the manifold had been removed before.
One tip to go with your article - I did not have the epoxy putty to seal the spindle/actuator hole after removing the parts. It looked about 8mm internal and sure enough an 8mm cap head screw is a snug fit.
I used an 8 x 25 button head, as that was convenient.
I removed the seal and metal bus temporarily & cleaned those and the hole through the manifold thoroughly.
I "buttered" the screw with silicone gasket plus a good bead against the head, put the seal on, another bead, the metal bush and a final bead, then fitted the whole ot back in the bore using an allen key to seat it solidly.
The screw head is too big to go through the seal or bush so there is no possibility of them being pulled through in to a port, even if the silicone does not fix them; the seal can only get tighter with vacuum.
Filling up the hole above the head with silicone ensures a permanent seal. I re-fitted the vacuum actuator immediately, as a spigot on that fits the end of the bore and if the silicone had hardened it would not have fitted properly. A wipe with a fingertip to remove the excess ooze tidies it up.
I just have to leave it to set overnight now - that's the downside compared to using epoxy.
Now running a 2007 Mondeo Ghia X Mk3 facelift, full leather interior etc.
The one below from the manifold photos is now retired - a hose blew July 2015.
2002 Mondeo Ghia Mk3 Hatchback - 2.0 Duratec; No mods except new thermostat & inlet manifold.
My Mondeo Manifold page: http://www.robertjen...ondeo/index.php
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