17 replies to this topic

[wordingh]

Hi,

I am struggling to remove the last two nuts that hold the front flexi pipe on to the bottom of the catalyst.

I am a bit confused as to why the two studs that attach this pipe have a torx type head to them, am I supposed
to be undoing these to remove this pipe ? Or is it just the nuts are so rusted on that I cannot budge them.
I have tried WD40 & a blowtorch but all I seem to be achieving is to round the nuts

Has anyone got any tips as to how I can get this pipe removed from the bottom of the cat ?

Yours in hope,

Paul...

[Mart1001]

It's a horrible job Paul and I really feel for ya mate. I can't really help as I've never done it...I just see you haven't had any replies and so I'm here to offer my support.

I recently swapped over my engine from a donor car and while I was at it, I wanted to also swap the cat as I suspected it was damaged. I had a quick go with these bolts after soaking them in wd40 over night and as soon as the spanner slipped off, I thought 'forget that' and decided to just swap the complete exhaust with the one from the donor...it was easier to just slip the system off the mounts than to try to dismantle it.

I have never had any luck with exhaust nuts/bolts for the simple rust reasons. Can't you take it to quik-fit etc ? I know it's money mate but I just wouldn't even bother trying these days...the more you try, the more you round them off etc. What's the job you're actually doing ?...is there any other way around it ? Would removing the complete system from under the car help you to get these bolts out easier ?

Sorry I couldn't be more help mate but, I wish you all the luck in the world cause I've been there...and I made my mind up years ago that me and rusty nuts just don't get on. Let us know if you have a breakthrough though mate.

Mart.

[wordingh]

Hi Mart,

Thanks for taking the time to reply. After completely mangling the two nuts, and trying my patience to the limit, I popped down to my local garage. They were fantastic, and after 5mins on the ramp and a bit of oxy-acetylene they managed to remove them both. A bit of work later and I have a quiet exhaust again.

I have learnt my lesson, and will NEVER try and do this job again

Paul...

[Mart1001]

Nice one mate, glad you got there in the end.
Exhaust and brake pipes...the two things on cars I hate messing with. It always helps when you have the required tools and of course, a proper ramp.

Sometimes and for some jobs, it's better to just pop along to a garage and talk nice to um

Mart.

[ffoy]

Damn.Was hoping for pictures lol. Late reply to this thread but am just about to tackle the job....

 

Am fully prepared (2004 1.8 Duratec):

 

• have new CAT
• have new flexi
• have all the gaskets
• have a section of pipe from scrappy with the lambda sensor in it

I know the fixings are in an horrific state and am expecting the worst but my plan of attack is

• get the sensor out the scrap section by cutting/weakening the pipe
• remove downpipe from car if I can't get old flexi of in-situ
• same with rear section of exhaust to get old CAT off

 

So I guess my question is how much of a PitA is it so get the downpipe off? I'm envisaging having to take the flippin engine out 

[ffoy]

This is an old thread but it has had over 3000 views and I couldn't find an answer to the issue until I tackled it myself so in the interests of completeness I'll add some useful pics. Before I do that however I have one observation about the original post on this thread:
 
The guy was talking about removing the flexi from the bottom of the CAT... well am not sure which car he had but on the 4-cylinder Duratec it's manifold/downpipe then flexi then CAT then rear exhaust. On the rare 1.8 SCI models the downpipe seems to incorporate a box of some sort so mb that's what wordingh was looking at. 
 
Anyway what I've found is that the studs in the downpipe flange are pressed in but also (friction?) welded on the head-side. So if the nuts that hold the flexi-flange to the downpipe are mullered just cut the nut & stud clean off then press the stud out. You'll need to remove the manifold to do it but that is very easy believe it or not
 

1.8 & 2.0 Duratec manifold/downpipe looks like this and has studs integral with bottom flange 
 
 

1.8 SCI looks like this. box on downpipe could be confused for a CAT 
 
 

what you will probably find when trying to remove nuts that connect flexi to downpipe 
 
 

quickest way to separate joint is to cut studs (c/w remains of nut) flush with flange 
 
 

taking manifold off car will reveal that head of studs are welded to flange
 
 

you can then cut heads off 
 
 

then press stud into a socket using vice



with stud out you have clean hole that you can use M10 bolt thru

Edited by ffoy, 09 January 2019 - 02:48 PM.

[ffoy]

So I guess my question is how much of a PitA is it so get the downpipe off? I'm envisaging having to take the flippin engine out 

meant to say...

taking the manifold off is a breeze. sounds more complicated than it actually is but all you do is as follows (spanner sizes in brackets):

 

• remove 2 screws (8mm) that hold heatshield to downpipe (ie go under car to get to these)
• remove another 2 the same from top of heatshield (you need to take plastic cover off top of engine first)
• remove 4 self tappers (8mm) round rear-edge of heatshield
• take away top shield then pull bottom one up as far as it'll go then move bottom towards servo and roll it up and out sidelong
• disconnect downpipe-sensor plug (blue) 
• remove 7 (15mm) nuts that hold manifold to head
• under car remove 2 (13mm) bolts that hold downpipe to bracket on rear of block

 

heatshield can be rolled out like this after pulling it up as far as it will go

Edited by ffoy, 09 January 2019 - 08:29 PM.

[raynkar]

This is an old thread but it has had over 3000 views and I couldn't find an answer to the issue until I tackled it myself so in the interests of completeness I'll add some useful pics. Before I do that however I have one observation about the original post on this thread: The guy was talking about removing the flexi from the bottom of the CAT... well am not sure which car he had but on the 4-cylinder Duratec it's manifold/downpipe then flexi then CAT then rear exhaust. On the rare 1.8 SCI models the downpipe seems to incorporate a box of some sort so mb that's what wordingh was looking at.  Anyway what I've found is that the studs in the downpipe flange are pressed in but also (friction?) welded on the head-side. So if the nuts that hold the flexi-flange to the downpipe are mullered just cut the nut & stud clean off then press the stud out. You'll need to remove the manifold to do it but that is very easy believe it or not 1.8 & 2.0 Duratec manifold/downpipe looks like this and has studs integral with bottom flange   1.8 SCI looks like this. box on downpipe could be confused for a CAT   what you will probably find when trying to remove nuts that connect flexi to downpipe   quickest way to separate joint is to cut studs (c/w remains of nut) flush with flange   taking manifold off car will reveal that head of studs are welded to flange  you can then cut heads off   then press stud into a socket using vicewith stud out you have clean hole that you can use M10 bolt thru

The comment about removing the flexi pipes from the cat could have been on a V6 engine.
On the 220 the two flexi pipes connect to the cats with a single bolt in a clamp.

[ffoy]

Hi,

I am struggling to remove the last two nuts that hold the front flexi pipe on to the bottom of the catalyst.

 

 

you mean this one raynkar?

 

I don't think wordingh will be back so we'll never know lol

[mondy zetecs]

Could a ball joint puller fit in to remove the stud once the head has been cut off.