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heater matrix removal on mondeo mk2
Started by
ndr1804
, Mar 11 2011 07:48 PM
29 replies to this topic
#21
Posted 14 March 2011 - 07:43 PM
Thanks. Its certainly strange. Were your clips in the the engine compartment.? So when you pull the lower casing forward does the matrix come with it. regards Nigel
#22
Posted 15 March 2011 - 05:06 PM
Well today I moved the hose rings from the engine side of the bulkhead. This didn't free the lower casing/ Its stuck to the extent of when pulling on the casing I have cracked or broken the casing its self.....HELP!
#23
Posted 15 March 2011 - 10:32 PM
Thanks. Its certainly strange. Were your clips in the the engine compartment.? So when you pull the lower casing forward does the matrix come with it. regards Nigel
Yes, the matrix drops down with the lower casing - it's fixed to the lower half.
My lower casing struggles to stay up, let alone not come down.
#24
Posted 15 March 2011 - 10:45 PM
I've just dug out my 93-96 Haynes manual and this is the guide it gives - assuming you've drained the coolant:
1) Disconnect coolant hoses from heater matrix in engine bay compartment (the clips on mine were inside the cabin).
2) Remove the trim panels from each footwell, just in front of the centre console. Each panel is secured by two screws. If additional clearance is required, the centre console can be removed as well, but this is not essential.
3) Remove the single screw to release the air duct in the base of the heater unit and retract it..
4) Remove the three Torx-type screws (size T20) securing the air distributor to the heater bottom cover, then release the clips. There is a single plastic clip on each side, and additional metal clips may be found. Withdraw the air distributor.
5) Release the clips - there are two plastic clips on each side and additional metal clips may be found - then withdraw the heater units bottom cover complete with the matrix
Reading through the book and looking in my car (with the torch), I don't have step 4 - there are no Torx-type screws or air distributor to the heater bottom cover. It's all one unit with the matrix inside.
So step 4 may be what you're missing.
I never used the book to take mine apart as there wasn't a lot holding it to the upper housing in the first place.
1) Disconnect coolant hoses from heater matrix in engine bay compartment (the clips on mine were inside the cabin).
2) Remove the trim panels from each footwell, just in front of the centre console. Each panel is secured by two screws. If additional clearance is required, the centre console can be removed as well, but this is not essential.
3) Remove the single screw to release the air duct in the base of the heater unit and retract it..
4) Remove the three Torx-type screws (size T20) securing the air distributor to the heater bottom cover, then release the clips. There is a single plastic clip on each side, and additional metal clips may be found. Withdraw the air distributor.
5) Release the clips - there are two plastic clips on each side and additional metal clips may be found - then withdraw the heater units bottom cover complete with the matrix
Reading through the book and looking in my car (with the torch), I don't have step 4 - there are no Torx-type screws or air distributor to the heater bottom cover. It's all one unit with the matrix inside.
So step 4 may be what you're missing.
I never used the book to take mine apart as there wasn't a lot holding it to the upper housing in the first place.
#25
Posted 16 March 2011 - 11:07 AM
Hey many thanks for all your investigation work for me.
I know about the lower extra air duct casing with the 3 screws I've got 2 of those out the 3rd well...how the hell your supposed to remove the 3rd I don't know.I can't even get my fingers in with the little torque screw end to put it into position. Many many thanks for the work 93 Mondy. I'll try get this lower casing outregards Nigel 1804.
I know about the lower extra air duct casing with the 3 screws I've got 2 of those out the 3rd well...how the hell your supposed to remove the 3rd I don't know.I can't even get my fingers in with the little torque screw end to put it into position. Many many thanks for the work 93 Mondy. I'll try get this lower casing outregards Nigel 1804.
#26
Posted 16 March 2011 - 04:24 PM
well after using mirrors and self made tools to get to the third srew I eventually managed to get the screw out. once the lower air duct casing came out then that enabled the matrix casing to move out and I eventually got my matrix out. where the two pipes go out of the casing there is another srew holding the pipes in place to the casing so this has to be removed aswell. I'm hoping that i can screw the airduct casing back to the matrix casing first before putting it back into my car because those three srews are murder. I still cannot under stand why it wouldn't come out as one nothing was in its way and neither of the casings were attached to the dash or floor in any way. but yet i still couldn't pull it out. many many thanks to you for all the help and time you have spent in helping me. I might be back yet trying to put it all back to gether but I hope we have helped people further in the future with this topic/thread.Regards nigel 1804.
#27
Posted 18 March 2011 - 02:40 PM
Hi again could someone just please remind me which is the in pipe and which is the return.........is the long bent pipe that comes out of the bottom of the matrix the return. so does the in rubber pipe come from like the top of the engine and the return pipe being the one that is a bit further away from the engin a biut lower so to speak....regards Nigel 1804
#28
Posted 18 March 2011 - 06:00 PM
I think pressure wise, the water going into the matrix needs to come from the top of the engine.... I could be completely wrong. To be honest, I can't remember! The book doesn't help either.
#29
Posted 18 March 2011 - 06:46 PM
Many thanks... I seem to remember the pipe from the top of the engine getting warm first and the return being a little cooler before. but I've sort of relied on the natural fall of the pipes to put them on to the matrix. It has got warm anyway but doesn't seem to be really hot.....regards nigel 1804
#30
Posted 18 March 2011 - 08:29 PM
hi guys just one other thing I've noticed. WHEN THE ENGINE REVS FOR A WHILE ANFTER A WHILE THE RAD CAP BLOWS OF STEAM AND WATER. i'VE JUST HAD THE HEAD GASKET REPLACED. DO YOU THINK THE RAD CAP IS FAULTY ALTHOUGH THAT IS NEW FROM LAST YEAR AND THE THERMOSTAT IS NEW AS WELL SO DON'T KNOW WHY IT SHOULD GO OFF. NIGEL 1804
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