Heater resistor pack - Air-Con / Heating (Mk1/Mk2 Mondeo) - TalkFord.com

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Heater resistor pack


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11 replies to this topic

#1 jaro

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Posted 06 January 2010 - 06:18 PM

I have no heat coming into the car whatsoever. I read that on a Mk1 mondeo, a blown resistor pack is a likely culprit.

I put my car into a garage because it could well be a multitude of problems, but the garage came back and simply said it was the resistor pack after all. With Christmas and New Year and items not being in stock, they couldn't replace the part and I needed the car.

So I purchased a new resistor pack from a local Ford dealer today and fitted it. Unplugged the wiring housing from the back of the old pack and slotted into the back of the new one. I ran the engine for about 10 mins and it still blew cold air, on every setting, both fan speed and direction. I also moved the temperature dial from hot to cold a few times to see if that triggered anything, but nothing.

Any further suggestions?

The car in question is a P-reg Mondeo estate 1.8 TD LX. New radiator fitted end of 2008. Had a trickle of heat before it was replaced.

#2 stevieb12345

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Posted 06 January 2010 - 06:23 PM

The resistor pack has nothing to do with the heating and only controls the fan speed.

Does the dial for the hot/cold move freely,and all the way round? or does it feel a bit stiff?

#3 jaro

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Posted 06 January 2010 - 06:27 PM

Hi,

The hot/cold dial moves freely all the way between the extremes.

Thanks

#4 Slide

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Posted 06 January 2010 - 07:04 PM

Not sure if there is any difference with the diesel engine but on the petrols no hot air through the cabin heating system would suggest the lack of water circulation to the heater matrix or possibly more. This may be the result of the thermostat being stuck closed or water pump failure. Heat and pressure can be felt by squeezing the large rubber pipe between the radiator and thermostat housing. This will give you an indicator if water is flowing or not.

The resistor pack on mine only controls all but the full speed fan setting.
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#5

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Posted 06 January 2010 - 07:14 PM

Hi
My mk2 recently blew cold only, after the water pump belt disintegrated. The temp gauge was towards the high end of normal, but didn't seem to overheat (bizarrely). My sister was driving and didn't notice anythign amiss except for a 'funny sound' - on high alert, I jumped in and the first thing I noticed was a high gauge. I was just praying she hadn't everheated the engine and caused head gasket issues.

If its a lack of circulating water, then I would expect your temp gauge to be reading high?

Cheers
Phil

#6 jaro

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Posted 06 January 2010 - 07:59 PM

Good points. I did have one mechanic who checked all the pipes and so forth around the engine bay and seemed to think all was fine and that my heating problem was something behind the dashboard and he didn't want to contemplate going any further.

When I bought the new resistor pack I was in two minds getting a new temperature sender. Not sure whether that would affect in car heating? I replaced the thermostat 6 months ago with a generic Halfords model.

The dash temperature gauge always points to the N on NORM, never had the needle pointing in the middle. It was actually reading just below the N until I added some antifreeze to the radiator.

Any ideas?

#7 jaro

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Posted 07 January 2010 - 03:18 PM

I just checked all the hoses and pipes after letting the car run idle for about 20 mins or so. All the pipes were warm or very warm. Even the two pipes leading from the back of the engine into the heater matrix (I guess). One pipe is very warm and the other just not as warm.

I guess the flap or valve which mixes the cold/hot air is stuck open to cold?

How do you release that? A quick response before the sun goes down will be very useful.

Thanks

#8 stevieb12345

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Posted 07 January 2010 - 04:01 PM

Your car is P reg so will have a metal wire going from the back of the hot/cold dial down to the heater flap(behind the kick panel in the drivers side footwell) This wire can get a kink in it (Very common) That's why I asked you If it moved freely as when it's kinked it becomes stiff and bounces back and won't open the hot.

#9 jaro

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Posted 07 January 2010 - 04:08 PM

Best complete the story.

Reading other posts on heater flaps I looked deep down in the footwell, by the clutch pedal and on the left hand side you'll see a white arm. Near by you'll see a cable floating freely in space as in my case or it may still be attached to the white arm.

Luckily, which suggests this has been a problem before, the plastic housing had been removed (I could be mistaken). It is this white arm that links into the flap mechanism. Move the arm forwards in the direction of the engine. Lovely warm air should come flooding through.

The black catch or clip at the end of the cable that comes down from the hot/cold dial had detached itself from the white arm. I noticed on mine the cable isn't actually long enough to push the flap all the way over to full heat.

By detaching the cable, one can push the flap a little bit further open to hot.

Hope that helps anyone else in that situation.

#10 stevieb12345

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Posted 07 January 2010 - 04:11 PM

So are you sorted then??