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Soft braking

3K views 58 replies 7 participants last post by  nicam49 
#1 ·
Today à brakeline snapt in the back. The mechanic repaired it with a new one. He refilled the brake oil en bleeded the system. The braking is still not good. When a push on the pedal without starting the engine, the brake pedal stays above. When I start the engine I can push the pedal totally down. When I am driving and I brake I must push the pedal full down to brake. What could be the problem.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
if its the abs pump it needs to be operated with a program like forscan during the bleeding process

if its the master cylinder the seals might have turned or burst
Which one I have to buy.https://www.autoonderdelen24.be/automerken/onderdelen-ford/mondeo-iii-saloon-b4y/16453/10126/hoofdremcilinder.html#10106

There are models in the discription is 'for cars without brake assistence" and models "for cars with brake assitence"

My dat had ABS, ESP. Do i need the expensiver Bosch one or is that one or the is the cheaper one of mapco good enough?

I have forscan also , i bought it when I had to replace a injector.

Can someone tell me the OEM number of that part in my car?
 
#9 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi, the only difference between the 2 master cylinders is the pushrod which can be swapped over easily (if you're hands-on)
If you've got Forscan check that it's a version that supports 'abs service bleed' if it doesn't then download a version that does. If you do a abs service bleed, then you have to have all 4 wheels off at once as the procedure does them all 1 after the other, you can't halt the procedure and carry on where you left off. I had to buy 2 sets of axle stands to do mine. There's some more info in another forum... I'll post up the link when I find it.
https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/92303-full-absesp-brake-bleed-with-forscan/
 
#17 ·
I would like to havthe car another 1 or 2 years. He is already 18years old with 248 000km on the clock.
Before I will order the part I'm gonna bleed the system again. Maybe there is still air in the system. What is the sequence of bleeding, rear left, rear right, front right and front left or otherwise? In the system is Bosch dot 4 oil, can I use kroonoil dot 4 to fill the system?
 
#18 ·
I would like to havthe car another 1 or 2 years. He is already 18years old with 248 000km on the clock.
Before I will order the part I'm gonna bleed the system again. Maybe there is still air in the system. What is the sequence of bleeding, rear left, rear right, front right and front left or otherwise? In the system is Bosch dot 4 oil, can I use kroonoil dot 4 to fill the system?
 
#21 · (Edited by Moderator)
Could try having a look at or dismantling the master cylinder for flipped or worn seals
before buying a new one.
Forget that! You'll never get it open. I bought a master cylinder repair kit for mine and wasn't able to dismantle it. Ended up buying a 2nd hand master cylinder from a breaker, not expensive as it turned out.
Anyone wanna buy a Bigg Red m/c repair kit?.. Cheap??
 
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#22 ·
Iyhe mechanics did in first only the rear ones. The second time they did it with a pressure pump en go from left front, right front, rear right to rear left. Not correct.
I will first try to bleed the system myself and if it is not oke, I will take out the master cilinder en dismantle it. To remove the master cilinder,
I first have to take out the oil out of the tank.
Disconnect the two pipes with a wrench
There is also a third line with a clip, how do I remove that one?
The is also a connector on top of the tank, how do I remove that one?
After loosen the 3 lines and the connector I have just to remove the 2 bolts that hold the master cilinder on place
Is this method correct
 
#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
Looks fairly easy in this vid.


can do without the doggy bits!!
It isn't. See the bit with the dogs? That's where he doesn't show getting the pistons out. Vid cuts back to the chase just in time to see him having removed the pistons. They DO NOT just fall out.
Incidentally, that 1st part he removes is the difference between a m/c with and without braking assist, so is easy to buy one and convert it to the other... the tip on one is sprung, and not on the other version.
 
#25 ·
I will first try to bleed the system myself and if it is not oke, I will take out the master cilinder en dismantle it. To remove the master cilinder,
I first have to take out the oil out of the tank.
Disconnect the two pipes with a wrench
There is also a third line with a clip, how do I remove that one?
The is also a connector on top of the tank, how do I remove that one?
After loosen the 3 lines and the connector I have just to remove the 2 bolts that hold the master cilinder on place
Is this method correct
 
#26 · (Edited by Moderator)
Be careful of the tank, because it is also the reservoir for the clutch, the upper pipe feeds the clutch, so try and make a plug out of a bolt wrapped with tape to the right thickness and so when you disconnect that pipe, plug the end of it. To prevent fluid loss and air getting in as much as poss. But 1st, see how it goes with the bleeding.
 
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