Step by step guide on how to change your central console from prefacelift to facelift - Interior / Exterior (Mk3 Mondeo) - TalkFord.com

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Step by step guide on how to change your central console from prefacelift to facelift


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#1 christyan78

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 03:03 PM

A couple of years ago i started to wonder if it would be possible to put a centre console from a facelift mondeo mk3,so a model from late 2003 into a prefacelift mondeo from 2000-2003,like I have.

At first look they appeared to be the same so I started to gather informations about that and found out that it`s possible and some of the megs have done it allready,but its not really a straight swap and it involves some chopping and rewiring of almost all the plugs.
Finally I did it and it wasn`t so difficult and scary as I first thought.

Now I want to share this with you,as I know that there are many of you who are interested in upgrading their vehicle.

What did I gain with that? The interior now looks more modern and new and the stereo in my opinion sounds better(especially if you put the sony)and you get the auxiliary function so you can play songs from an mp3 player or other device.Plus,on the facelift console you can easily fit a double din unit as there is a fascia adaptor for it since for the prefacelift console there isn`t.

This a is a step by step guide on how to remove the prefacelift console,rewire everything and put the new console.

Tools that you`ll need:
- Radio removal keys
- Phillips screwdriver
- Small ratchet set(only 8mm and 10 mm bits)
- Pliers
- Heat shrinking sleeves
- Stanley knife
- Some thin wire
- Drilling machine(preferably cordless)
- A dremell
- Heating gun
- Vinyl adhesive
Before starting the actual modding its better to get the following things done,like that you`ll have every
thing ready and you`ll be able to move faster and without mistakes.

First : the hazard lights plug on the prefacelift has 4 wires as on the facelift has only 3.The prefacelift plug has 2 wires that goes to earth,facelift only 1 so you need to connect both earth wires with the single earth wire from facelift plug.Just pop out the switch,unplug it and insert the wires from the facelift plug into the right locations on the prefacelift plug.
Try it and if you have hazard lights everything is ok.Put it beside;you will connect it properly when you start modding and now you know what wires to connect and where and you know that the new switch works.
One thing solved ,passing on to the next :the heated front and rear screen switch on prefacelift has 2 separate plugs for front and for rear as the new switch has only one plug that goes to front and rear together.So all the existing wires will go into one plug .Connect them like you did with the hazard plug by inserting them into the pin holes on prefacelift plugs like written below.

PREFACELIFT plugs to FACELIFT plug
FRONT : REAR :
PIN 1 to PIN 4 PIN 1 to PIN 4
PIN 2 to PIN 1 PIN 2 to PIN 6
PIN 4 to PIN 4 - same as PIN 1- PIN4 to PIN 4
PIN 6 to PIN 2 PIN 6 to PIN 3
PIN 8 to PIN 5 PIN 8 to PIN 5

Try it and if it works put it beside and you have another thing solved.
Note : the front screen heating only works with the engine running.

Next is the climate control unit. Here you will have to rewire both plugs,but it`s quite easy if you take it step by step,one pin at the time.You`ll have to take out all the wires from the old plugs and put them in a different order.It helps if you have another set of plugs(like I had)so you`ll take out pin by pin and put it into the new plug.The wires are easy to take out by pushing on the tip of the pin with something like a needle or a small nail scissor.
On one pin particularly (pin 14 white plug) you`ll have to make a patch to add an extra wire from that pin to pin 25 black plug.So it helps to have an extra 15 cm wire with a pin.

Step_3.JPG Step_5.JPG Step_5.JPG

The changes are here below .
BLACK PLUG :
PIN 1 – not used anymore(I simply wrapped it with some insulating tape over the rest of the wires .
PIN 3 to PIN 15 white plug
PIN 4 to PIN 1
PIN 5 to PIN 2
PIN 6 to PIN 7
PIN 8 to PIN 5
PIN 9 to PIN 6
PIN 10 to PIN 3
PIN 11 to PIN 4
PIN 12 to PIN 12
PIN 13 to PIN 13
PIN 15 to PIN 15
PIN 16 to PIN 20 white plug
PIN 20 to PIN 20
PIN 21 to PIN 21
PIN 22 to PIN 18
PIN 23 to PIN 19
PIN 24 to PIN 16
PIN 25 to PIN 17
PIN 26 to PIN 26


WHITE PLUG :
PIN 1 to PIN 11 black plug
PIN 2 to PIN 2
PIN 8 – not used anymore
PIN 9 to PIN 5
PIN 10 to PIN 6
PIN 14 – stay here but you`ll make a patch lead to PIN 25 black plug
PIN 15 to PIN 24 black plug
PIN 16 to PIN 21
PIN 18 to PIN 22
PIN 20 to PIN 3

Again,when every is ready try it(direct the airflow to windscreen,legs,front,set the temperature,increase,decrease the airflow)and if everything works ok rewire back the old plugs.
For me this was the most important thing,cause I know many of the megs had problems with the EATC not working properly after the change and I did`t want to find myself with the same problem and everything taken off the car.
It`s easier to do this test before as you can rich the EATC plugs through the hole where the stereo sits and leave everything else in place.No need to take out the central fascia,just the stereo.

Next step is to make the adaptors for the stereo.
You`ll need a Ford – ISO adaptor for the prefacelift connectors and a Ford – ISO adaptor for the facelift quadlock connector.From these you will make a Ford prefacelift – Ford facelift adaptor by moving the pins on one adaptor from ISO connector to FORD connector.
The prefacelift stereo has 3 connectors(connector C is used only for VSS and steering wheel controls)but the new adaptor has plugs just for connector A and B.The C connector(prefacelift plug)you will connect it directly with the C connector wires (facelift plug)- 4 wires.



The arrangement of the pins from prefacelift to facelift are here below :

CONNECTOR A (C 483):
PIN 1 to PIN 15 connector A facelift
PIN 2 to PIN 11 same
PIN 3 to PIN 16 same
PIN 4 to PIN 14 same
PIN 5 to PIN 13 same
PIN 6 to PIN 12 same
PIN 7 – not used

CONNECTOR B(C 484):
PIN 1 to PIN 7 connector A facelift
PIN 2 to PIN 3 same
PIN 3 to PIN 8 same
PIN 4 to PIN 4 same
PIN 5 to PIN 6 same
PIN 6 to PIN 2 same
PIN 7 to PIN 5 same
PIN 8 to PIN 1 same

CONNECTOR C(C 485)
PIN 6 to PIN 12 connector C facelift
PIN 10 to PIN 11 same
PIN 11 to pin 6 same
PIN 12 to PIN 8 same

Make the adaptor for connector A and B and leave the C connector for the end .You can connect it even after you change the console and everything.
Try the stereo.

Now with everything sorted out you can start the actual modding.
For that you need the following components :

- Facelift cradle( for CD6000 or for SonyCD as they ar different)
- Plastic ornament that surrounds the clock and the upper switches
- Facelift hazard light and heated front and rear screen switches completed with plugs and wires
- Facelift EATC unit completed with plugs
- Facelift stereo - cd 6000 or sonycd depending of what type of cradle you went for
- Facelift in-dash cup holder
- Plastic ornament that surrounds the gear gaiter
- Facelift gear gaiter completed with the chromed ring
- Plastic piece that covers the gear lever assembly
- Centre console that sits between the front seats completed with side panels

Console.jpg 2.jpg 3.jpg 4.jpg 5.jpg
6.jpg 7.JPG 8.JPG PA020145.JPG
From the stuff that is now on your console,only a few will fit in the facelift console:
- Boot opening switch
- Heated seats switch will fit with some triming
- Ashtray
- Armrest cover

LET`S START !

STEP 1 REMOVING PREFACELIFT STUFF
Remove the stereo using the keys.
Remove all the switches from the centre fascia- except for the in-dash cup holder that is screwed from inside.
Remove the plastic ornament that holds the gear gaiter by pulling it up,back side first.
Remove the side trims panels situated on each side of the centre console in the footwell area – one screw each side and clips.
Remove the console between the front seats by unscrewing the 3 screws situated into the cd compartment(under the armrest),2 screws(one on each side)in the gear lever area,2 screws right under the console(a metal plate)and 1 screw under the ashtray-cup holder assembly- pull up the ashtray first and disconnect the wires.
Pull the console up and towards you.
Now you`re passing on the centre fascia.
With all the switches taken out you will see now the locations of the rest of the screws.
One screw behind the hazard switch and one behind the heated screen switch.
Two screws inside where the stereo was(one each side)
UNSCREW THEM.

With all the screws taken out you can now start removing the centre fascia.
Start from the bottom and be careful with the cup holder.
Pull it out easy and as you have some space disconnect the EATC from behind – you should now how if you tested the climate unit like I told you in the beginning.
Remove the clock`s plug too.
When you rich top,in the air vents area you need a fairly strong pull as the cage is held in place by some clips .Pull towards you and up(diagonal)but again be careful with the cup holder.

FINISHED,now you have the cage out.
Now put back the new console between the seats and fix it with all the screws .
Time to start with the electrical part.

STEP 2 ELECTRICAL STUFF

Hazard lights switch
Heated front and rear screen switch
For these switches I`ve just cut the wires and tied them with the wires of the new plugs(I had plugs with 15 cm of wire)and then insulated them with the heat shrinking sleeves.
You already know the locations of each wire so it will be a 10 min job.
Tie some strings on each plug,this will help you to extract them outside after fitting the cage,if not it will be imposible for you afterwards.
Clock – plug and play on the same connector
Climate control unit – move every pin into the new plugs according to the diagram – for this you already have some practice if you did the test before.
When you finish is very important to test again to see if it works properly.
Stereo unit – plug and play for connector A and B(with the adaptor);connect the wires from connector C into connector C quadlock.Here I had to cut the wires and tie them with the new wires.
Just 4 wires.
If you have a cable for the auxiliary now it`s time to connect it to the quadlock(connector B from quadlock)and pass it behind the dash.
Airbag switch(the fake switch near the hazard switch)- you can stick the wire with the bulb somewhere inside the dash – don`t take the bulb out as you will have the airbag light always displayed on the dash and possibly errors in the computer.
Heated seats switches – the old ones will fit but in the old cradle they are fixed with a plastic ring screwed on the back of the cradle.On the new cradle this ring doesn`t exist,so you`ll have to unscrew it and glue it on the new cradle.You will see where to glue it and how you have to trim it when you have it in your hands.





STEP 3 FITTING THE NEW CRADLE
Triming

Test the cradle fixing now by pushing it in her place starting with the top air vents.You will see now that you`ll have to cut a little bit of plastic from the bottom of the dash to fit the cradle flush.
With the cradle in place put the plastic surrounding the gear lever over the armrest console.You will see now if the plastic ring that you glued for the heated seats touches anywhere and fix it.
Mark on each side the line where you need to cut the dash.
Take out the plastic and the cradle and peel off the vinyl from the sides of the dash couple of cm over the marking.
Start cutting the foam that covers the dash(not the vinyl)and try the plastic every time till you make it be at the same level with the dash surface.
If it`s leveled you need to cut now new holes to fix it.You`ll see where.
When its ok, heat the vinyl with the heat gun(to make it stretchy)and glue it on the dash.
Here you will need to grind down from the side panels the lip where it meets the dash so it can level with this.You will realize when you get there.

Fixing everything

Screw the climate control unit on the back of the cradle.
Pass the strings of the upper switches through the holes in the cradle where they fit.
Connect the plugs on the back of the climate control unit.
Push the cradle into her place arranging all the cables(especially the stereo `s cables).
If it fits ok,start with the upper switches.Pull the plug out by their strings and plug the switches.Now you won’t lose them behind the dash and you don`t need the strings anymore.
Start with the screws in this order:
3 screws where the stereo sits;
2 screws right under the cradle on the metal plate;
2 screws where the hazard and heated screen switches sits
Put the plastic over the gear lever and fix it with the 5 screws; 2 at the boot opening switch area and 3 at the cup holder.Now you will fix the cup holder also.
There also one screw each side of the armrest console .
Screw the clock on the plastic ornament and fix the ornament in place(it has 4 clips,just push it there);put back the switches.
Put back the stereo;now you will have a fair amount of wires there so you need to arrange them properly so you can push the radio in.
Put the plastic ornament with the gear gaiter over the gear lever;start with the top where the switches are - also 4 clips.
Screw back the gear knob.
Now fix the side panels on each side of the console.One screw and some clips,just like on prefacelift.

FINISH!!

Bottom line : The most difficult part for me was the trimming of the dash,it took some time to get it right and some finishing touches were done after the real installation.
It does help to have a heat gun ,I did`t and I made this on a cold weather and the vinyl was so rigid.
As scary as it appeared in the beginning,the electrical stuff was the easiest part.

Hope this helps everybody and if you agree maybe it can be made a sticky or/and added to fordwiki.
Good luck .
PS: I`m from Romania so feel free to correct my english if you see something wrong in this guide.
PS 2 : unfortunately i did`t have enough space to add pictures for every move but i will try to continue with this on my next posts in this topic.

Cheers.
2001 stardust silver mondeo ghia,1.8l,125hp

Mods so far : chromed interior door handles,chromed tip air vents,first facelift rear lights,facelift chromed radiator grill,rubber boot liner,centre console changed to facelift console,aux jack for the stereo

Mods to follow :buy the mk4 titanium x sport :))

#2 christyan78

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 03:22 PM

Next pictures

Cd player


132_c.jpg 2936_cablaj-adaptor-ford-iso-m-a-fo-iso-03.jpg 1.JPG 2.JPG
2001 stardust silver mondeo ghia,1.8l,125hp

Mods so far : chromed interior door handles,chromed tip air vents,first facelift rear lights,facelift chromed radiator grill,rubber boot liner,centre console changed to facelift console,aux jack for the stereo

Mods to follow :buy the mk4 titanium x sport :))

#3 stu.g

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 07:43 PM

:kaffeetrinker_2: :kaffeetrinker_2: :banana: :banana: :banana: TOP MAN, i now know whats needed and wont end up having the car off the road for weeks on end.

spot on write up :smoking: :smoking:

#4 christyan78

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 12:40 PM

Thanks
2001 stardust silver mondeo ghia,1.8l,125hp

Mods so far : chromed interior door handles,chromed tip air vents,first facelift rear lights,facelift chromed radiator grill,rubber boot liner,centre console changed to facelift console,aux jack for the stereo

Mods to follow :buy the mk4 titanium x sport :))

#5 FITZYNKAZ

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 05:48 PM

great write up something iv been meaning to do lol ps when you wire the hazard switch some peeps will find it doesnt work properly as some cars need the gem changing so dont worry if it does not work it doesnt mean you have gone wrong lol
ST 220 in panther black only mods so far
oem blackeyed xenons,facelift dash with sony 6 cd, facelift screen,all chrome trims inside and out ,powerfolds facelift variable red recaro leather interior and a big fook off engine under the bonnet
:D V 6 RULES END OF :D

#6 FITZYNKAZ

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 05:50 PM

ps i used thisrsz_eatc_(1).jpg
rsz_eatc_001.jpg
ST 220 in panther black only mods so far
oem blackeyed xenons,facelift dash with sony 6 cd, facelift screen,all chrome trims inside and out ,powerfolds facelift variable red recaro leather interior and a big fook off engine under the bonnet
:D V 6 RULES END OF :D

#7 christyan78

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Posted 04 February 2011 - 09:14 AM

Thank you FITZYNKAZ.You`re right about the hazard lights,i forgot to mention that.I used the same diagrams for the EATC,but i thought to make things more easy and right up directly the location of the new pins.Although it`s better to have these diagrams with you if one encounters any problems in changing the pins.
2001 stardust silver mondeo ghia,1.8l,125hp

Mods so far : chromed interior door handles,chromed tip air vents,first facelift rear lights,facelift chromed radiator grill,rubber boot liner,centre console changed to facelift console,aux jack for the stereo

Mods to follow :buy the mk4 titanium x sport :))

#8 KETTERSUK

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Posted 29 September 2011 - 02:47 PM

Can i ask on the white facelift plug, How comes there is something called SONY CAN, Pin's 18/19 data link connectors ???

Is this something to do with the sony headunit ??



#9 FITZYNKAZ

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Posted 29 September 2011 - 07:15 PM

Yes when you made a pre to post facelift radio adaptor you should have had a grey and blue wire from the quadlock left over these need to go to the 2 as per the sony can quote
ST 220 in panther black only mods so far
oem blackeyed xenons,facelift dash with sony 6 cd, facelift screen,all chrome trims inside and out ,powerfolds facelift variable red recaro leather interior and a big fook off engine under the bonnet
:D V 6 RULES END OF :D

#10 totalguy

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Posted 30 September 2011 - 06:17 PM

stick it in the wiki :L
51 plate ghia x tddi with extra oomph

Boost Pressure = ((MAP x 10) - BARO)/6.895 (use with F-Super readings)

My Blog http://abitoveverything.blogspot.co.uk




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